2. Spread the material oyt as much as possible, and place the entire
pattern on itj in orrU'r to determine the most economical way of cutting.
This is always advisable for economy in cutting, and if it is Beoeasary to
piece the garment, the piecing may be planned to come in the least con-
spicuous place.
3. If the material is eiisily cut and does not slip when several thicknesses
are cut at one time, it may be foldtnl end to end and most of the pieces
may be cut double. Care roust
always lie taken not to cut two
pieces for tlie same side. This
difficulty may be obviated by
placing the two right sides or
the two wrong sidci^ of the ma-
terial tot^ether when entting it.
Then, when the two pieces of
material are taken aiMirf , one in
for the right side and the other
for the left . Folding the ma-
terial together is not always the
most economical scheme, for
often the part8 of the patlerii
may be titte<l into irregular
places if cut singly.
4. Always place the Inrgest
pieces of the pattern finst with
the largest end of the pattern
toward the cut, end of the
goods. ThLs is economical l>e-
cause it leaves the irregularly
shaped pieces attachetl to the
large piece of the goods. Often
the smaller pieces of the pattern itiay tlien Ije fitted into these irregular j
pieces, which would 1m» useless if detached.
5. Obscr\^e carefully the nap or design of the material, placing the
pattern so that the design nms in the same direction, on all the pieces.
The nap genemlly runs down, but velvet and velveteen are exceptions to
this rule. Different color efTects are produced if the surface of the material
does not reflect the hght in the same way.
6. A consi>icuous design in t he nmterial, such as a plaid, must be identical
on the two sides of the garment to prevent destroying the balance or in-
tro<lucing undesirable lines. Mast iin[Kjrtant of all is keeping the grain of
the material identical on Ixith sides of the garment; otherwise the flet of
the garment will not be l>i-syin metric.
7. After the pattern has Irt'cn placed in the most economical manner,
pin it carefully, trying not to lift the material and the pattern from thij
Fio. (Hi. — Method of increasing or decreas-
iiiK thp bust measure of a shirt-waist
pattern without iacreasioK thelon^h of
the shoulder. The openiog should ex-
tend from the Ixtltoni of ttie wuist ia a
straight line to the deepest curve of the
arrahole. In the front it k often better
to make two slashes than to spread one
slaah too far. This method of adjuat-
tnent necejssitatcii lowering the armhole
and. if the second slash is made, aligbtly
lowt^riog the tip of the shoulder near
the arm bote.
MANUAL OF HOME-MAKING
table when pinning thcnn, I>o no! ujsi^ ioci nmny pins; tbey not only Ukke
time to plafM*, but they often make noticeable holes in the matcml, e»-
pecially in silks.
8. The ftclual positiim of thp p^*tU'rn on the Roods depends largely on
the puttfTn. Whf-n xmnji:, a noriinicrrial pattern, reiid th<' din'rticinjt
carefully, and then loeate the indieatinK murks which Mhovv thf len^Ethwsi^,
the crosswise, and the fold of the muteriaL These indicating marks shuuld
he followed carefully.
For usinK a riiodeled pattern, or a paitera without indicating
marks^ the following guides are offered:
Page 195
Presented as published in 1919. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
A modernized reading is not available for this page yet. You are seeing the original text.
2. Spread the material oyt as much as possible, and place the entire
pattern on itj in orrU'r to determine the most economical way of cutting.
This is always advisable for economy in cutting, and if it is Beoeasary to
piece the garment, the piecing may be planned to come in the least con-
spicuous place.
3. If the material is eiisily cut and does not slip when several thicknesses
are cut at one time, it may be foldtnl end to end and most of the pieces
may be cut double. Care roust
always lie taken not to cut two
pieces for tlie same side. This
difficulty may be obviated by
placing the two right sides or
the two wrong sidci^ of the ma-
terial tot^ether when entting it.
Then, when the two pieces of
material are taken aiMirf , one in
for the right side and the other
for the left . Folding the ma-
terial together is not always the
most economical scheme, for
often the part8 of the patlerii
may be titte<l into irregular
places if cut singly.
4. Always place the Inrgest
pieces of the pattern finst with
the largest end of the pattern
toward the cut, end of the
goods. ThLs is economical l>e-
cause it leaves the irregularly
shaped pieces attachetl to the
large piece of the goods. Often
the smaller pieces of the pattern itiay tlien Ije fitted into these irregular j
pieces, which would 1m» useless if detached.
5. Obscr\^e carefully the nap or design of the material, placing the
pattern so that the design nms in the same direction, on all the pieces.
The nap genemlly runs down, but velvet and velveteen are exceptions to
this rule. Different color efTects are produced if the surface of the material
does not reflect the hght in the same way.
6. A consi>icuous design in t he nmterial, such as a plaid, must be identical
on the two sides of the garment to prevent destroying the balance or in-
tro<lucing undesirable lines. Mast iin[Kjrtant of all is keeping the grain of
the material identical on Ixith sides of the garment; otherwise the flet of
the garment will not be l>i-syin metric.
7. After the pattern has Irt'cn placed in the most economical manner,
pin it carefully, trying not to lift the material and the pattern from thij
Fio. (Hi. — Method of increasing or decreas-
iiiK thp bust measure of a shirt-waist
pattern without iacreasioK thelon^h of
the shoulder. The openiog should ex-
tend from the Ixtltoni of ttie wuist ia a
straight line to the deepest curve of the
arrahole. In the front it k often better
to make two slashes than to spread one
slaah too far. This method of adjuat-
tnent necejssitatcii lowering the armhole
and. if the second slash is made, aligbtly
lowt^riog the tip of the shoulder near
the arm bote.
MANUAL OF HOME-MAKING
table when pinning thcnn, I>o no! ujsi^ ioci nmny pins; tbey not only Ukke
time to plafM*, but they often make noticeable holes in the matcml, e»-
pecially in silks.
8. The ftclual positiim of thp p^*tU'rn on the Roods depends largely on
the puttfTn. Whf-n xmnji:, a noriinicrrial pattern, reiid th<' din'rticinjt
carefully, and then loeate the indieatinK murks which Mhovv thf len^Ethwsi^,
the crosswise, and the fold of the muteriaL These indicating marks shuuld
he followed carefully.
For usinK a riiodeled pattern, or a paitera without indicating
marks^ the following guides are offered: