mereial patlerns are used, the amount of material necessary
for the making of the garment is generally stated on the out*
8ide of the envelope. This amount i.s often over-generous.
Experieiiee soon ieaehe-s one the minimum amount of material
to buy for a garment.
For a sJcirt.
In estimating the amount of material necessary for a skirt,
one must first decide on the witlth of the bottom of the skiH*
Fio* 64. — Method of shortciiinK a ahirt-WRist pattern. To
flhorten the pattt-rn a fold nmy be taken lilwiit 2
inches abovt' the wuist-line. To shurten the alt»ove a
fold muy Ik? taken abuut 2 inclie«i atwrivi? or bc^ow the
line of the clb«jw dependinK nn the pnjportion ^tf tho
arm.
In plain material, as many full lengtlis of the material will be
required as the number of times the measm-e of the width of
the eloth is containtKl in the meajsure of the width of the bottom
of the skirt. This is a very generous allowance, because often
in placing gores, e.specially on plain material with no up or
down, they may l)e fitted in so that much le^s material need
be useil. It is often helpful in e.stimating the amount of ma-
terial needefl, to plaee the pattern on a table in the position
for cutting material of a definite width.
For a waist.
In general, once the length of the front, measured from the
point of the shoulder nearest the base of the neck, to the w^aist-
lino, and once the length of the back from the same point on
344
A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKfNG
^cloH
the shoulder to the waist-line, plus once or twice the outsidi
length of the sleeve, will give an idea of the amount of material
required.
HOW^ TO PLACE THE PATTERN ON THE MATEHIAL
After the pattern has been altered and tested, or after it
been cut in inexpensive material and modeled to the figure,!
Fm. 6.5. — Motlifid of <*uttijiipr and orH^nifiir !t «h»rl-wuls< »»>»-
tern to Ihruw in fuUtn^ss. TliLs nit'lliutt t»f pu
tncjn' futlnfitf« into » uhirt-waUt pattern nlso incr*
the IcufTth id the shoulder. The Unt* of opetuuK
should i*xtL*i»i thniUKh abtiut the center of the shoulder.
It 18 often fitHH*«8ary to inrrea^ie the ai»e of the iirm-
hole to make it eorreapondingty larffrr. The stecw!
miiy be opened along the ci'Uter.
it is ready to be placed for cutting on the material. A H
general rules are here given but there are many execptions to|
them.
1, Observe on tlie outside of the pattern envelope or on the giiidr « fi^rt \
coutttiriod in the envdo|>e, the allowuric*e for seams. In the ea«e of (bit I
mmldwi pattern allow for seamSt since the pattern has lxH?n cut nimrt I
exantly on the line of halting. In rase the neatn allowances have not l)«*o I
made, allow at least 3/S inch on material which does not fray, and man;]
on njatcrial that frays badly. If the pattern hii.s not Ihhl'h uschI Iw^forr^ j
it is a wise precaution to make an allovvane«* of at least 1 incii on all fitting j
aeani8, fiuch as the shoulder seam and the undef-arm seam uf the waist.
and the seams of the skirt which ^'11 over the fidkvt part of the Ixxly, In
making the extra allowance on the skirt 8eams, Ix'^in at the waisst-linD anil j
taper down to the nrigtnal allowance at a point from 12 to H inches bdow
the hip-line.
THE MAKING OF CWTHING
345
I
Page 194
Presented as published in 1919. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
A modernized reading is not available for this page yet. You are seeing the original text.
mereial patlerns are used, the amount of material necessary
for the making of the garment is generally stated on the out*
8ide of the envelope. This amount i.s often over-generous.
Experieiiee soon ieaehe-s one the minimum amount of material
to buy for a garment.
For a sJcirt.
In estimating the amount of material necessary for a skirt,
one must first decide on the witlth of the bottom of the skiH*
Fio* 64. — Method of shortciiinK a ahirt-WRist pattern. To
flhorten the pattt-rn a fold nmy be taken lilwiit 2
inches abovt' the wuist-line. To shurten the alt»ove a
fold muy Ik? taken abuut 2 inclie«i atwrivi? or bc^ow the
line of the clb«jw dependinK nn the pnjportion ^tf tho
arm.
In plain material, as many full lengtlis of the material will be
required as the number of times the measm-e of the width of
the eloth is containtKl in the meajsure of the width of the bottom
of the skirt. This is a very generous allowance, because often
in placing gores, e.specially on plain material with no up or
down, they may l)e fitted in so that much le^s material need
be useil. It is often helpful in e.stimating the amount of ma-
terial needefl, to plaee the pattern on a table in the position
for cutting material of a definite width.
For a waist.
In general, once the length of the front, measured from the
point of the shoulder nearest the base of the neck, to the w^aist-
lino, and once the length of the back from the same point on
344
A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKfNG
^cloH
the shoulder to the waist-line, plus once or twice the outsidi
length of the sleeve, will give an idea of the amount of material
required.
HOW^ TO PLACE THE PATTERN ON THE MATEHIAL
After the pattern has been altered and tested, or after it
been cut in inexpensive material and modeled to the figure,!
Fm. 6.5. — Motlifid of <*uttijiipr and orH^nifiir !t «h»rl-wuls< »»>»-
tern to Ihruw in fuUtn^ss. TliLs nit'lliutt t»f pu
tncjn' futlnfitf« into » uhirt-waUt pattern nlso incr*
the IcufTth id the shoulder. The Unt* of opetuuK
should i*xtL*i»i thniUKh abtiut the center of the shoulder.
It 18 often fitHH*«8ary to inrrea^ie the ai»e of the iirm-
hole to make it eorreapondingty larffrr. The stecw!
miiy be opened along the ci'Uter.
it is ready to be placed for cutting on the material. A H
general rules are here given but there are many execptions to|
them.
1, Observe on tlie outside of the pattern envelope or on the giiidr « fi^rt \
coutttiriod in the envdo|>e, the allowuric*e for seams. In the ea«e of (bit I
mmldwi pattern allow for seamSt since the pattern has lxH?n cut nimrt I
exantly on the line of halting. In rase the neatn allowances have not l)«*o I
made, allow at least 3/S inch on material which does not fray, and man;]
on njatcrial that frays badly. If the pattern hii.s not Ihhl'h uschI Iw^forr^ j
it is a wise precaution to make an allovvane«* of at least 1 incii on all fitting j
aeani8, fiuch as the shoulder seam and the undef-arm seam uf the waist.
and the seams of the skirt which ^'11 over the fidkvt part of the Ixxly, In
making the extra allowance on the skirt 8eams, Ix'^in at the waisst-linD anil j
taper down to the nrigtnal allowance at a point from 12 to H inches bdow
the hip-line.
THE MAKING OF CWTHING
345
I