Only patteras of standard makes which contain very explicit
guide charts should be purchased. A waist pattern for a normal
figure should he bought by the bust size. If the biist should
be abnormally full, it is still necessar>^ to buy the pattern by
the bust size and then make the required adjustments. A skirt
pattern should be purchased by the hip size, unless the waist
is large in proportion to the hips, in which ease it shodd be
bought by the waist size.
Before opening a pattern, the directions on the outside of the
envelope should be read ver>' carefully, seam allowances being
noted and also the marks that are used to indicate the correct
placing of the pattern. On opening the envelope^ the pieces of
the pattern should Ix^ looke<l over and compared wdth the
guide chart. The pieces of the pattern to be used are then
selected, any others returned to the envelope.
How to test a commercial paUern.
Using the individual measurements, the pattern may be tested
for the size before placing it on the material. If it is necessary to
make many changes, it is best to alter the pattern, cut it in cam-
bric or unbleached muslin, and then try it on to see that all
the lines are right before cutting it in the material for the
garment.
To test the pattern, the back and front should be pinned
together along the Hue of the shoulder seams.
Using the individual mea>suremeiits, the neck-line is then
tested. If it is large, it may be adjusted by raising the neck-
line slightly.
With the shoulder seam still pinned, the armhole is tested
and made approximately the correct size by raising or lowering
the wai; t under ihe arm and tapering the line to the normal arm-
hole. If this does not correct the fault, the under-arm seam may
be matle deej^er.
I
I
342
A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKING
i
Simple adjusifmnts in comjnercial paUerns,
The accompanying illustrations (Figs. 63-80) will make clear
the ordinar}^ adjustrneDts necessiiry in commereial patterns*
For the aboomial figure, tJie gannent must be modeled on the
figure after it is basted,
HOW TO ESTIMATE THE AMOUNT OF MATERIAL
No definite rules can \ye given for estimating the necessary
amount of material for a garment l>ecause of the many influenc-
L
Fio. 63. — Method of lengthening »hirt*wai8t pattern. The fmnt and hiM*k of
the waist pattern an* generally cut aLK>ut 2 inrheu aliave the waiitt'line for
lengthening. For a figure that is very long from the ahoulcjer to the lower
eurve of the armhole, the pattern may bi* lengthened hy cutting it from
the amihole to the center front. The shirt-wai^t^ slewvo may bo leiucth*
cned in two plaees if neeessary, depending on whether the arm b lonft
from the shoulder to the ellx>w or from the ellww to the wrist. The flleevc
pattern is generally cut about 2 inches above or below the elbow line.
ing factors, such as fashion, finish, width, and design of the ma-
terial.
Pieces left from the cutting of the skirt and waist may gener-
ally be used for cutting the cullarSp cuffs, or any small decora-
tions. In buying expetisive materiaL it is always peniussible
to take the pattern to the store and quickly place it on the
material to get an estimate of the amount necessary. If com-
I
THE MAKING OF CLOTHING
34S
Page 193
Presented as published in 1919. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
A modernized reading is not available for this page yet. You are seeing the original text.
Only patteras of standard makes which contain very explicit
guide charts should be purchased. A waist pattern for a normal
figure should he bought by the bust size. If the biist should
be abnormally full, it is still necessar>^ to buy the pattern by
the bust size and then make the required adjustments. A skirt
pattern should be purchased by the hip size, unless the waist
is large in proportion to the hips, in which ease it shodd be
bought by the waist size.
Before opening a pattern, the directions on the outside of the
envelope should be read ver>' carefully, seam allowances being
noted and also the marks that are used to indicate the correct
placing of the pattern. On opening the envelope^ the pieces of
the pattern should Ix^ looke<l over and compared wdth the
guide chart. The pieces of the pattern to be used are then
selected, any others returned to the envelope.
How to test a commercial paUern.
Using the individual measurements, the pattern may be tested
for the size before placing it on the material. If it is necessary to
make many changes, it is best to alter the pattern, cut it in cam-
bric or unbleached muslin, and then try it on to see that all
the lines are right before cutting it in the material for the
garment.
To test the pattern, the back and front should be pinned
together along the Hue of the shoulder seams.
Using the individual mea>suremeiits, the neck-line is then
tested. If it is large, it may be adjusted by raising the neck-
line slightly.
With the shoulder seam still pinned, the armhole is tested
and made approximately the correct size by raising or lowering
the wai; t under ihe arm and tapering the line to the normal arm-
hole. If this does not correct the fault, the under-arm seam may
be matle deej^er.
I
I
342
A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKING
i
Simple adjusifmnts in comjnercial paUerns,
The accompanying illustrations (Figs. 63-80) will make clear
the ordinar}^ adjustrneDts necessiiry in commereial patterns*
For the aboomial figure, tJie gannent must be modeled on the
figure after it is basted,
HOW TO ESTIMATE THE AMOUNT OF MATERIAL
No definite rules can \ye given for estimating the necessary
amount of material for a garment l>ecause of the many influenc-
L
Fio. 63. — Method of lengthening »hirt*wai8t pattern. The fmnt and hiM*k of
the waist pattern an* generally cut aLK>ut 2 inrheu aliave the waiitt'line for
lengthening. For a figure that is very long from the ahoulcjer to the lower
eurve of the armhole, the pattern may bi* lengthened hy cutting it from
the amihole to the center front. The shirt-wai^t^ slewvo may bo leiucth*
cned in two plaees if neeessary, depending on whether the arm b lonft
from the shoulder to the ellx>w or from the ellww to the wrist. The flleevc
pattern is generally cut about 2 inches above or below the elbow line.
ing factors, such as fashion, finish, width, and design of the ma-
terial.
Pieces left from the cutting of the skirt and waist may gener-
ally be used for cutting the cullarSp cuffs, or any small decora-
tions. In buying expetisive materiaL it is always peniussible
to take the pattern to the store and quickly place it on the
material to get an estimate of the amount necessary. If com-
I
THE MAKING OF CLOTHING
34S