Noix de Veau en Surprise à la Toulousaine

Ingredients

• cushion of veal
• quenelles of chicken forcemeat
• lamb sweetbreads
• collops of veal sweetbreads
• cocks’ combs
• small muskrooms
• slices of truffle
• Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence

Method

1. 1

   Braise the cushion and cut it to shape.

2. 2

   Fill with a garnish of quenelles, lamb sweetbreads, cocks’ combs, mushrooms, and truffles, cohered with Allemande sauce.

3. 3

   Seal and heat in the oven.

As published

This recipe was extracted from A guide to modern cookery (1909) by A. Escoffier, page 231. The excerpt below is the record exactly as published.

CUSHION OF VEAL (Relevés) I have grouped these various Relevés together owing to the identicalness of their garnishes. The directions I give below for cushion of veal are, with a very few exceptions which I shall point out, applicable to all other large veal joints. In the circumstances, therefore, it would be quite unnecessary to repeat the recipe in each case. RELEVES AND ENTREES 399 Loin of Veal is that piece which corresponds with the sirloin in beef. It extends from the floating ribs to the extreme end of the haunch, the latter being cut flush with the pelvic bone at its junction with the femur, and following the direction of the former bone. The loin thus consists of two distinct parts :— (1) the caudal region (called the chump end; Fr. quasi), which comprises the bones of the pelvis and the haunch, up to the level of the latter, and is one of the best pieces of veal for braising; and (2) the region extending from the haunch to the floating ribs, comprising the fillet and the upper fillet. This last portion also constitutes a choice joint, to which the kidneys are generally left attached, after all their superfluous fat has been removed. Neck or Best End of Veal consists of the first eight or nine ribs, cut two inches above the kernel of meat. The ends of the rib-bones are cleared of meat to a height of about two-thirds inch, and the naked bone is then called the ‘‘ handle’’ of the cutlet, which ultimately holds the ornamental frill of paper. The vertebrz are then suppressed, so that the bones of the ribs alone remain; the yellow ligament is cut away; and the bared parts are covered with slices of bacon, tied on by means of string. Cushion of Veal consists of an enormous muscle, which represents almost half of the haunch and all the inside part of it, from the pelvis to its junction with the tibia. A certain quantity of white fat will always be found to lie over the cushion, and it should be carefully reserved. If the cushion is to be larded, a procedure which I do not advise, it should be done on the bared part adjoining the fat- covered region. The various pieces of veal enumerated above may be roasted, but, as in the case of the saddle, I prefer braising, owing to the greater succulence of the dish resulting from this process, and its accompanying gravy, which has an incomparable flavour. (See Braising of White Meats, No. 248.) 1198—ADJUNCTS TO CUSHION OF VEAL Cushion of veal, like the other large pieces of veal, admits of an almost unlimited number of vegetable garnishes, simple or compound, as also garnishes of various pastes. From among these garnishes the following may be quoted, viz. :—Bouquetiére, Bourgeoise, Chartreuse, Choisy, Chicorée, Cardoons, Clamart, Braised Celery, Japanese Artichokes, Chow-chow, Endives, Spinach, Braised Lettuce, A la Vichy, a la Nemours, &c.; Jardiniére, Macédoine, Renaissance, &c. 400 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY Among the paste garnishes:—Noodles, Macaroni, Spa- ghetti, variously prepared; various Gnocchi, &c. And, in addition to all these, the garnishes already given under Beef Relevés, which need not be repeated here. I shall, therefore, give only three recipes which are proper to cushion of veal; though even these should be regarded as mere curiosities, seeing that, far from recommending them, I consider them rather as gastronomical mistakes. But some provision must be made for outlandish tastes, and, for this reason alone, I include the following recipes. 1199NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE Braise the cushion of veal, keeping it somewhat firm. This done, set it on a dish, and let it almost cool. Then cut a slice from it laterally, at a point one-third inch of its height from the top; and, within one-half inch of its edges, make a circular incision, pressing the point of a sharp knife into the meat, and withdraw the centre of the cushion. Take care to leave the same thickness of meat on the sides as on the bottom, that is to say, about one-half inch. The cushion of veal, thus emptied, should have the appearance of a round or oval case. If the meat withdrawn from the centre of the cushion is to serve for the garnish, or is to be used sliced to surround the case, cut it from out the whole in the largest possible pieces, in order that slices may easily be cut therefrom. The inside of the emptied cushion of veal is then garnished according to fancy; the top of the piece that was cut off at the start is returned to its place, with the view of giving the piece an untouched appearance, and the whole is put in the oven for a few minutes that it may be hot for serving. The braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained, should be sent to the table separately. 1200—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA MACEDOINE Braise the cushion of veal, and hollow it out as explained above. Meanwhile (1) prepare a Macédoine garnish, or mixed Jar- diniére (cohered with butter or cream), the quantity of which should be in proportion to the size of the case; (2) cut the meat, withdrawn from the centre of the cushion, into thin rectangles. Garnish the bottom of the case with a layer of Macédoine, and set thereon a litter consisting of the rectangles of meat. Cover with Macédoine; set thereon another litter of the pieces RELEVES AND ENTREES 401 of meat, and renew the operation until the case is filled. Finish up with a layer of Macédoine. Replace the slice cut from the cushion at the start; put the case in the oven for a few minutes; serve, and send the braising- liquor separately. 1201--NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA PITHIVIERS Braise the cushion of veal, and prepare the case as directed above. Stuff fifteen larks without boning them; that is to say, put a lump of stuffing about the size of a hazel-nut into each. Fry them in butter with one-half lb. of mushrooms and three oz. of truffles, each of which vegetables should be raw and minced. Cohere the whole with the necessary quantity of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game essence; put this garnish in the case; return the sliced piece to its place; seal the cover to the case by means of a thread of almost liquid forcemeat, and set in the oven for seven or eight minutes. When taking the case out of the oven, surround with the withdrawn meat, which should have been cut into thin slices and kept warm until required for the dressing. The larks may be replaced by quails or thrushes, or other small birds, but the name of the particular bird used must be referred to in the title of the dish. 1202—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA TOULOUSAINE Braise the cushion and cut it to the shape of a case as explained above. Pour therein a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat; lamb sweetbreads, or collops of veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration; cocks’ combs; small muskrooms, cooked and very white; and slices of truffle; the whole to be cohered by means of an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence

Cook this with the app: pantry check, scaling, and the assistant.