With a saucepan over the sea

form of chartreuse. And as for Avignon of Provence, in the south, they insist that superlative cooking will always flourish there because it was for a long while the home of the Pope, and the angels taught the natives how to cook. Travellers will agree that southern France, with its bouillabaisse and cannelons and vol-au-vents, is bewitching, yet when they go to Normandy they find just as fine fare. A Parisian housekeeper prefers a Norman cook to any other, but again, all the poets and artists come from the southland and have been nourished on bouillabaisse. The Normans are as thrifty as the Quakers, yet the Quakers have made Philadelphia famous for feasting. The Provençals are careless and gay like the Spanish and Italians, so near ; and here. New Orleans, combining French taste and Spanish ardor, claims good cooking as her birthright. If, however, a study of these recipes widens the horizon of any housewife, as eager and patient to excel as time and money permit, or any travellers find this book a guide for epicures, the work of compilation will not have been in vain. ADELAIDE KEEN. WITH A SAUCEPAN OVER THE SEA Chapter One — Soups COCKA LEEKIB. (Scotland.) This is the oldest recipe for soup known, as It dates back to the fourteenth century. Wash and trim I dozen leeks, cut them in pieces half an inch long, discarding roots and tops, then fry them in I ounce of butter, with 2 stalks of celery and i carrot, cut fine. When brown but not burnt, add I }i quarts of chicken broth and i cup of cooked chicken, cut into dice. Simmer, covered, 2 hours, then add salt, pepper, and yolk of an egg, blended with a little of the broth, first, before adding to the soup. PETITE MARMITE. This is the national soup of France, and just now very fashionable in first-class restaurants. It is always served in the earthen pot in which it is cooked, set on a fancy plate. Each mouthful should convey a distinct taste of a separate vegetable. The marmites are sold at the crockery stores in the French quarter, but an ordinary earthen With a Saucepan over the Sea Boston bean pot will answer equally well to serve it in. The stock can be first cooked in a large kettle, used for soups, every day* Cut up 6 pounds of beef and the shin bone, an old chicken, — which can be used for croquettes or salad, — 2 large carrots, 2 leeks, and 2 turnips. Add 3 cloves, a bay leaf, some parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram, i gallon of water. Bring it to a boil, skim it, and let it simmer 8 hours. Take off the fat, clarify it, and use it for frying or braising. Add salt and pepper sparingly, set it away overnight, after straining it. To i quart of this, heated in the earthen pot, add i cup of sliced carrots, turnips, or string beans, cut thin and cooked. Also 4 slices of toasted bread or rolls. Using this recipe for stock — it is given by a reliable chef at one of the clubs — it will make 3 Y2 quarts, sufficient for a week ; i pint a day, with the addition of milk or vegetables or any other thickening, will do for a small family. Such concentrated stock requires an equal amount of water in cooking a second time. It may also be used in making sauces. PUREE JACKSON. (Paris.) Wash, parboil, and pare 6 large potatoes. Slice them, add 2 ounces of butter, fry lightly, then add salt, pepper, nutmeg, a bayleaf, some parsley, 2 With a Saucepan over the Sea ounces of chopped ham, i sliced onion, and 6 stalks of celery. Simmer for ^ hour. Press through a sieve, add i pint of white stock made from chicken or veal, and i pint of boiling milk, 2 ounces of butter, and the yolk of i egg, blended with a little of the milk. Stir well, add some bread, toasted and cut in dice, called croutons, and serve at once. EQQ SOUP. (Monte Carlo.)