AMONG the many English customs which have been introduced into American so- ciety there is none that sooner attained a widespread popularity than afternoon tea — a simple and easy form of entertainment, that entailed little expense and less trouble upon the hostess, and supplied a long -felt want. Soon all over the land teas were the rage, and in large cities and small villages alike cards were flying about, bearing upon them the name of the hostess, and in one cor- ner, " Tea at five o'clock " or " Tea from four to six," as the case might be. With the usual tendencv of the citizens of this great and glorious country to impress upon the fashions borrowed from other na- tions the stamp of their own individuality, it was not long before the stereotyped tea, bread-and-butter, and cake, which had at first 263 •WHAT TO KAT — ^HOW TO 8KEYE IT made up the menu of these entertainments, began to undergo modifications. First, chocolate was added, on the plea that many people do not care for tea. Bouillon came next, and the use of this served as the basis of that absurd report, instantly accepted by foreigners, that the American young women were so fragile in constitution as to be obliged to brace themselves up with strong beef tea at their receptions, in order to enable them to perform their social duties. With bouillon came sandwiches; next appeared salad, and after that oysters, croquettes, creams, ices, and charlottes followed one an- other in rapid succession, until the metamor- phosis of the modest tea into the reception, with its heavy party supper, was complete. Part of this change may be attributed to the display and love of competition which are numbered among our national character- istics. But at least a portion of the blame must fall upon the participants in these en- tertainments, who, not understanding that a tea to be a tea must be simple, did not hesi- tate to grumble at the trifling nature of the 264 AFTERNOON TEA refreshments there offered for their de- lectation. "I am sick of your afternoon teas!" grumbled one lord of creation, when inform- ed that the family had just received cards to one of these affairs. "/ like to go to a place where you get something to eat he- sides' a cup of beef tea and a cracker, or tea and bread-and-butter. It isn't the kind of supper a hungry man wants when he comes from his business. He needs something hearty.'' Ignorant and boorish though he was, he voiced the sentiment of many of his sex, who, owing to the training American society has furnished in this respect, consider no party a success unless the social enjoyments are supplemented by a big " spread." In England, where the dinner hour falls later than it usually does in this country, the light sustenance offered by afternoon tea serves as a welcome break in the long stretch which intervenes between luncheon and dinner. Here a man who has his appetite whetted for a six-o'clock repast cares little for a tri- 265 WHAT TO EAT — ^HOW TO SERVE IT fling refection at five or half after five. It only serves to blunt his hunger without sat- isfying it.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

AMONG the many English customs which have been introduced into American society there is none that sooner attained a widespread popularity than afternoon tea — a simple and easy form of entertainment, that entailed little expense and less trouble upon the hostess, and supplied a long -felt want. Soon all over the land teas were the rage, and in large cities and small villages alike cards were flying about, bearing upon them the name of the hostess, and in one corner, " Tea at five o'clock " or " Tea from four to six," as the case might be. With the usual tendency of the citizens of this great and glorious country to impress upon the fashions borrowed from other nations the stamp of their own individuality, it was not long before the stereotyped tea, bread-and-butter, and cake, which had at first made up the menu of these entertainments, began to undergo modifications. First, chocolate was added, on the plea that many people do not care for tea. Bouillon came next, and the use of this served as the basis of that absurd report, instantly accepted by foreigners, that the American young women were so fragile in constitution as to be obliged to brace themselves up with strong beef tea at their receptions, in order to enable them to perform their social duties. With bouillon came sandwiches; next appeared salad, and after that oysters, croquettes, creams, ices, and charlottes followed one another in rapid succession, until the metamorphosis of the modest tea into the reception, with its heavy party supper, was complete. Part of this change may be attributed to the display and love of competition which are numbered among our national characteristics. But at least a portion of the blame must fall upon the participants in these entertainments, who, not understanding that a tea to be a tea must be simple, did not hesitate to grumble at the trifling nature of the refreshments there offered for their delectation. "I am sick of your afternoon teas!" grumbled one lord of creation, when informed that the family had just received cards to one of these affairs. "/ like to go to a place where you get something to eat besides a cup of beef tea and a cracker, or tea and bread-and-butter. It isn't the kind of supper a hungry man wants when he comes from his business. He needs something hearty.'' Ignorant and boorish though he was, he voiced the sentiment of many of his sex, who, owing to the training American society has furnished in this respect, consider no party a success unless the social enjoyments are supplemented by a big " spread." In England, where the dinner hour falls later than it usually does in this country, the light sustenance offered by afternoon tea serves as a welcome break in the long stretch which intervenes between luncheon and dinner. Here a man who has his appetite whetted for a six-o'clock repast cares little for a tri- fling refection at five or half after five. It only serves to blunt his hunger without satisfying it.

What to eat, how to serve it