FoodNetArchive

The table

1889

Page 4

Presented as published in 1889. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Ruffed grouse, commonly called partridges, are in season from Sep- tember i to February i. Pinnated grouse, commonly called prairie-chickens, from September I to February i. Quails, from November i to February i. Woodcock are in the market from August i to February i, and are fattest in October. English snipe appear in the spring, and again in the autumn, when they are in their best condition, and are to be had in smaller quantities during the winter. Yellow-legged snipe, robin or red-breasted snipe, dowicher and black- breasted or winter snipe, also common snipe, are abundant in the spring, and again from July through October, when they are best. Upland, grass, or gray plover are in market through the spring and summer months, and are fattest in August and September. Doe-birds are to be had a* about the same time. They are plover of a larger size, and are considered not inferior to any other. Golden plover, or frost-birds, are plentiful in the spring, and are in fine condition in September and October. Sora, or Virginia rail, are best in September and October. Reed-birds, or rice-birds, become very fat in August and September. When found among the reeds of New Jersey they are called reed-birds, and rice-birds when from the wild rice-fields of the South. Rabbits and hares are in season from November i to February i. Venison is in market from August i to January i only, and is good during that time. Antelope may be generally had through the autumn and winter months. Wild pigeons appear in the spring and autumn, but no longer in such immense numbers as formerly. It is only possible to obtain them for market when their " nestings" are near a railroad, which facilitates their quick shipment. The young birds (wild squabs), taken from the nest, make a most delicious broil. Wild ducks, swan, geese, and brant are in season from September r to May i. The choicest of these are: canvas-back, mallard, teal, red- THE TABLE. head, widgeon, wood, brant, cygnet or young swan, goose when young and fat. English pheasants, English hares, and Scotch grouse are to be found in the New York markets in excellent condition during the winter months. The wild mongrel goose, which appears in our markets about Christ- mas-time, is, like the canvas-back duck, considered as one of the greatest luxuries, and exclusively American. The far-famed canvas-back duck is also an exclusively North American species. Closely resembling in appearance and habits the red-head of America and the pochard of Europe, it is still quite distinct from and superior to both these species in the excellence of its flesh. It is found throughout North America, from the Arctic Ocean to Central America, on the interior waters and on both shores. Chesapeake Bay is the most noted ground for canvas-back ducks in the country, but they are espe- cially abundant in Southern California. They breed on the ponds, rivers, and lakes, from Oregon to the more extreme northern portions of the con- tinent. The canvas-back is without doubt the most sought after and widely known of all our ducks, and in localities where it can obtain the root of the Vallisneria spiralis (called by some tape-grass, and by others, incorrectly, wild celery), the food to which it owes the peculiarly delicate flavor for which it is so famous. As a highly prized delicacy, it stands without a rival.