The proportion of gluten in different grades of wheat varies ;
but the mere quantity of gluten is by no means the only standard
of the commercial value of flour, the quality also counting for
much. Soil and climate are essential factors in modifying the
character of wheat, and necessarily of flour. The same variety
of wheat, grown on the same soil, has also been known to show
varying degrees of strength of its gluten in different seasons.
Be this as it may, as a rule, wheat grown where the summers
are short and not too hot furnishes the best and strongest gluten
for bread making. For
instance, the wheat
grown in Russia is of
the best. Canada wheat,
like that grown in the
Northern States, is ex-
cellent, for the same
reason. Wheat grown
in the Middle States is
99
SCIENCE of FOOD and COOKERY
of fair quality; but that grown in the Southern States and that
grown in California, is usually soft, containing a weak gluten, and
consequently not well adapted to the making of yeast-raised breads.
Soft wheat is light-colored and has plump kernels; while hard
wheat is commonly of a dark color, with kernels not so rounded
as the former. Soft wheat is best for the making of crackers,
pastries, and the like, as the dough is more brittle than that made
from hard wheat flour. Hard wheat, when ground entire and
made into bread, gives a dark-colored loaf with excellent flavor.
If a good grade of flour is necessary for the making of satis-
factory white bread, it is all the more needful in the making of
entire wheat bread, as the mixture of bran particles in the flour
permits the gas to escape a little more readily than when white
flour is used, wholly or in part.
In order to make good entire wheat bread, therefore, it is first
of all essential to have a flour that contains a strong gluten ; also
the flour must be ground fine, to prevent the gas from escaping
before the dough is sufficiently light. The dough for entire wheat
bread must be soft — so soft that it can scarcely be kneaded on
the board. This is most important, because the bran absorbs
moisture in the loaf, even after baking, and causes it to dry out.
PRINCIPLES OF BREAD MAKING
Breads are divided into -two classes :
Fermented, made light by a ferment, yeast being usually em-
ployed.
Unfermented, made light by the introduction of air into the
dough or batter.
Fermented bread is generally made by mixing flour, water,
salt, fat, and yeast to a dough, a small amount of sugar being
added to hasten fermentation. The dough is kneaded until it is
elastic to the touch and does not stick to the board, the object
being to incorporate air, and to distribute the yeast' uniformly. It
is then covered, and allowed to rise until it has doubled its bulk,
and does not respond to the touch when tapped sharply, but
gradually and stubbornly begins to sink. At this stage, the dough
is "ripe," and ready to be worked down. It will require all the
100
SCIENCE of FOOD awf COOKERY
Page 55
Presented as published in 1921. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The proportion of gluten in different grades of wheat varies ; but the mere quantity of gluten is by no means the only standard of the commercial value of flour, the quality also counting for much. Soil and climate are essential factors in modifying the character of wheat, and necessarily of flour. The same variety of wheat, grown on the same soil, has also been known to show varying degrees of strength of its gluten in different seasons.
Be this as it may, as a rule, wheat grown where the summers are short and not too hot furnishes the best and strongest gluten for bread making. For instance, the wheat grown in Russia is of the best. Canada wheat, like that grown in the Northern States, is excellent, for the same reason. Wheat grown in the Middle States is
of fair quality; but that grown in the Southern States and that grown in California, is usually soft, containing a weak gluten, and consequently not well adapted to the making of yeast-raised breads.
Soft wheat is light-colored and has plump kernels; while hard wheat is commonly of a dark color, with kernels not so rounded as the former. Soft wheat is best for the making of crackers, pastries, and the like, as the dough is more brittle than that made from hard wheat flour. Hard wheat, when ground entire and made into bread, gives a dark-colored loaf with excellent flavor. If a good grade of flour is necessary for the making of satisfactory white bread, it is all the more needful in the making of entire wheat bread, as the mixture of bran particles in the flour permits the gas to escape a little more readily than when white flour is used, wholly or in part.
In order to make good entire wheat bread, therefore, it is first of all essential to have a flour that contains a strong gluten ; also the flour must be ground fine, to prevent the gas from escaping before the dough is sufficiently light. The dough for entire wheat bread must be soft — so soft that it can scarcely be kneaded on the board. This is most important, because the bran absorbs moisture in the loaf, even after baking, and causes it to dry out.
PRINCIPLES OF BREAD MAKING
Breads are divided into -two classes :
Fermented, made light by a ferment, yeast being usually employed.
Unfermented, made light by the introduction of air into the dough or batter.
Fermented bread is generally made by mixing flour, water, salt, fat, and yeast to a dough, a small amount of sugar being added to hasten fermentation. The dough is kneaded until it is elastic to the touch and does not stick to the board, the object being to incorporate air, and to distribute the yeast' uniformly. It is then covered, and allowed to rise until it has doubled its bulk, and does not respond to the touch when tapped sharply, but gradually and stubbornly begins to sink. At this stage, the dough is "ripe," and ready to be worked down. It will require all the