FoodNet

Public school household science

1905

Page 60

Presented as published in 1905. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The following methods have proved successful, and may be tried where colors are likely to be affected by alcohol. Molasses, or a paste of soap and baking soda may be spread over the stain and left for some hours, or the stain may be kept moist in the sunshine until the green color has changed to brown, when it will wash out in MILDEW, pure water. Mildew requires different treatment from any previously considered. Strong soap suds, a layer of soft soap and pulverized chalk, or one of chalk and salt, are all effective, if in addition the moistened cloth be subjected to strong sunlight, which kills the plant and bleaches the fibre. Javelle water may be tried in cases of advanced growth, but success is not always assured. Some of the animal and vege- oiLs. table oils may be taken out by soap and cold water, or dissolved in naphtha, chloroform, ether, etc. Some of the vegetable oils are soluble in, hot alcohol (care being taken that the tempera- ture be not raised to the point of igniting). Vaseline stains should be soaked in kerosene before water and soap touch them. INK. Ink spots on white goods are the same in character Jis on colored fabrics. Where the ink is an iron compound, tlie stain may be treated with oxalic, muriatic or hot tartaric acid, aj)j)lied in the same manner as for iron rust stains. No definite ruhi can be given, for some inks are affected by strong alkalies; otljcrs by acids, while iBOK some will dissolve in clear water. Red iron rust *""• spots must bo treated with acid. Fill an earthem LAUNDRY WORK. 137 dish two-thirds full of hot water and stretch the stained cloth over this. Have two other dishes with clear water in one and ammonia water in the other. The steam from the hot water will furnish the heat and moisture favorable for chemical action. Drop a little muriatic acid on the stain ; let it remain a moment, then lower the cloth into the clear water. Repeat until the stain disappears. Rinse carefully in the clear water and finally immerse in the ammonia water, that any excess of acid may be neutral- ized and the fabric protected. Salt and lemon juice are often- sufficient for a slight stain. Many spots appear upon white goods, which resemble those made by iron rust, or the fabrics themselves acquire a yellowish tinge. This is the result of the use of blueing and soap, where the clothes have been imperfectly rinsed. Therefore, if all dirt is removed, and the clothes thor- oughly rinsed from all soap or alkalies used in removing the dirt, and exposed for a long time to air and sunshine, the use of blueing is unnecessary. In cities, where con- veniences for drying and bleaching in the sunshine are few, a thorough bleaching two or three times a year is a necessity ; but in the country it is wiser to abolish all use of blueing and let the sun, in its action with moisture and the oxygen of the air, keep the clothes white and pure. Freezing aids in bleaching, for it retains the moisture upon which the sun can act so much longer. When clean grass, dew and sunshine are not available, use a bleaching powder. Directions for the use of the powder usually accompany the can in which it is bought. Care must be taken to completely rinse out the acid 138 DOMESTIC SCIENCE.