FoodNet

The profession of cookery, from a French point of view

1894

Page 62

Presented as published in 1894. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Elaborate decorations either of fruit or flowers are only within the reach of the wealthy, but a few fresh flowers, or a little growing plant, may be procured by the most frugal family economist. Perhaps the prettiest decoration possible is the common field poppy and its attendant grasses, or the autumn bramble leaves, to be had for the gathering. Ivy or holly in winter may be kept fresh for weeks with care. Due regard should be had to the fact that we eat by the eye as well as by the palate, and by the sense of association as well as by reason. In fact, too great a regard for reason with many people would be thought sufficient to spoil the appetite ; they prefer to follow the example MENUS FOR SMALL DINNERS. 1S7 of tliafc good old l)0)i vivcmt of anecdote fame who '^ate as lie pleased/' He had as many things as he liked, and ate of them as much as he could, then with a stiff tumbler of brandy and water he would go to sleep, and '' leave them to fight it out amongst themselves/' That sociability at table is an aid to digestion is an undisputed fact, and no one realizes this more than the typical Frenchman. Having a natural inclination to domesticity, he is much more alive to the amount of trouble in- volved in the preparation of a good dinner, and is, therefore, prepared to give due and discrim- inating appreciation to each course ; welcoming with a beaming eye his favourite '^ sauce '' or '^ civet,'' as the case may be, until at the last he is left in that delightful state of mind described as '^ the love of all mankind and toleration of the Chinese/' When giving an order for a dinner a little forethought should be used ; it will save an in- finity of trouble. It is possible to order a dinner, and a small one too, which implies so many saucepans in use that the fireplace could not hold them all ; or many dishes which can only be dressed at the 1 88 MENUS FOR SMALL DINNERS. last momentj therefore all claiming the attention of the cook at the same time. Fried oysters^ croquettes, mutton cutlets, and an omelette, would sorely try the most capable cook were they ordered as four entrees together. Where the menagere is her own cook, she will be less likely to fall into this error; still, a little thinking beforehand may save even her a good many steps, and considerable anxiety at the crucial time of serving up. Many things, particularly entree dishes, may be cooked hours before, and then only require to be warmed up. We will suppose that a family of six to eight persons has to be catered for, and the housewife has to depend largely upon her own two hands for most of the actual work of cooking, and that soup, fish, one entree, joint, and sweets is to be the menu. The entree should generally (if economy has to be studied) be made of the remains of the previous day's joint, if that is sufficiently re- duced in size, or something simple, such as omelettes or a vegetable dish. Whether an entree is an expense or no largely depends upon the ingenuity of the cook ; if the joint is hot and fresh, an entree preceding it will serve as a damper, and save it from a too MENUS FOR SMALL DINNERS. 189 liberal consumption; if it be cold^ then the same entree will make it all the more palatable.