The profession of cookery, from a French point of view

The last-named are found exceedingly useful as a break between two rich-flavoured dishes. THE DEJEUNER A LA FOURCHETTE. i8i Sardines are perhaps the most esteemed commencement for a dejeuner, as oysters arc most liked as a preface to a good dinner. One very effective little appetiser, and admirably adapted to commence a dejeuner with, is made as follows : — Some small round pieces are cut from a stale loaf, then fried a light golden colour in hot fat, and allowed to cool. Some olives are then stewed, and a few anchovies neatly filleted ; these last-named are rolled up and slipped into the stoned olives. Next a drop of stiff mayonnaise sauce is placed upon the tiny round of fried bread, the olive is fixed upon this, and another drop of sauce crowns the whole, or a bit of bright aspic jelly. The mingled flavours of olive, anchovy, and sauce are delicious. Anchovy toast is also a very nice commencement to a dejeuner. We will now consider a few dishes suitable for a simple family dejeuner, and equally suited for the luncheon table of our English friends. Let us suppose that sardines have been first handed round, as they are available at all times of the year. Nothing but a good piece of bread is required with them. It need not be hinted that this is a very unsubstantial commencement to a meal ; remember it is only the appetiser. iS2 THE DEJEUNER A LA FOURCHETTE. We will now seriously begin the meal with ^' potage a la puree et au croutons." This is made by first boiling split peas and other vegetables till thoroughly soft, then passing them through the tamis, and adding a sufficient quantity of stock or thin broth to make all of the consistency of cream. Season this well; let it heat again, and while it is doing so, some bread which has been cut into dice is fried in a little butter till brown, then put in the tureen, and the boiling puree poured over just before serving. If we had chosen, this same potage might have been made of lentils, haricots, or potatoes, all done exactly the same way. We will presume the menagere has at hand some cold roast beef, from which she purposes to make " beef olives." She will first prepare a light forcemeat, bread-crumbs, suet, chopped parsley and herbs, an egg to bind the whole, and pepper and salt ; a little fine sausage meat is also an improvement. The roast beef is sliced very thinly, the forcemeat laid in small quantities on each slice, and these are then rolled lightly, fastened with a little skewer, and dipped into egg and breadcrumbs, then fried in hot fat for a few minutes. THE DijEUNER A LA FOURCHETTE, 183 After that tliey are laid in a brown sauce, well flavoured, to cook a few minutes longer. Just before serving a little wine is added to the sauce. These olives might also have been made of fresh beef, rump steak very thinly sliced, but in that case a little longer time to stew should be allowed. " Flageolets au beurre '' would be excellent either to follow this dish or to serve with it, according to taste.