The profession of cookery, from a French point of view

Nearly all French cooking vessels are made either of glazed earthenware or enamelled iron. In great houses the housekeeper will proudly show her extensive " batterie de cuisine ^^ of immaculately shining copper; but these would be seldom used. Nothing is found to surpass tlie "terrine'^ or earthen cooking vessels ; they are long in reaching the boiling point, but they will retain the heat, and keep a more equable temperature longer than any other kind ; and this slow cook- ECONOMY AS THE SOUL OF COOKERY, ii ing is an essential in most of tlieir metliods of cookery, particularly in soup making. The favourite form for the ^' pot-au-feu " is a very deep one with aflat bottom, not very wide, and the sides sloping upwards to a slightly narrower opening at the top with a well-fitting lid. This makes the perfection of bouillon. Where more rapid cooking is desirable, as in boiling of vegetables or sauces, nothing is found to equal enamelled iron, not easily burnt at the bottom, and quite easy to keep clean if only the cook will take the precaution of filling up the vessel with water immediately it is done with. As the enamel retains the heat longer than plain iron, whatever remains on the surface hardens very quickly, making it a diflScult matter to get off again once it is allowed to become dry. Where the enamel has become discoloured or stained, it may be made white again by boiling a little quicklime in the water. Sand and powdered pumice-stone are ex- cellent aids in cleaning saucepans, also earthen- ware vessels of all kinds. A French housewife has her regular cleaning day for all her kitchen utensils, which is as faithfully observed as her washing day. Every article which admits of being polished is taken \2 ECONOMY AS THE SOUL OF COOKERY. down aud literally scnihhed with simd and strong soda water till it shines again; a final rinse in hot water, and a wipe with a clean towel before it is restored to its place. All tinware, iron, copper, or brass utensils are kept in excellent condition by this means; one or two hours' steady labour will suffice. French country people throughout the land, and even the townspeople in the southern towns, reckon to keep at least one pig; and this most useful animal is turned to good account. If he is not " the gintleman that pays the rint," he at least does a very largo share to- wards maintaining the family. Killed in the autumn, by pickling, drying, and various other methods of curing, his flesh provides meat for all the winter at least, and has the advantage of being always at hand should an emergency arise in the shape of an unexpected visitor. There are professional pig slayers and curers, whose sole business it is to do everything that is required in regard to the animal. They make the strings of sausages ready for smoking, the hams for curing, the " black puddings,'^ the " pates,'' .the " fromages de pore " ; prepare the pieces for the pickling tub, and, in fact, ECONOMY AS THE SOUL OF COOKERY. 13 undertake all tlie trouble and responsibility connected witli tlie occasion. Then is tlie grand opportunity of the year for the good ^'menagere'^ to show her kind heart.