The profession of cookery, from a French point of view

They have a direct action upon the liver, and in cases of liver complaints (very often also for rheumatism) they are ordered by the doctor, either in the form of a tea or tisane, or as a poultice. The ^^ tea '' made by boiling leeks in water may be made very much more palatable for an invalid if a teaspoonful of Bovril or Liebig's Extract be dissolved in each cupful. A liberal seasoning of salt and pepper also helps both taste and tonic. For broth from beef or mutton it is better to tie the leeks together in bunches, and serve them thus among the other vegetables round the dish, — or, better still, if there be any quantity of them, to serve them separately in a vegetable dish, pouring white sauce over them ; they are both wholesome and delicious if treated thus. During the winter months they should be kept covered with fresh earth. A poultice of fresh-boiled leeks laid between flannel is a remedy which certainly comes under the category of kitchen physic. It is a remedy, LEEKS AND ONIONS. 143 however, mucli trusted by continental doctors for any inflammation of the liver or kidneys^ and has the power of quickly bringing out copious perspiration. The mild flavour of leeks makes them much preferred in nearly all soups — they combine with other flavours, but will not overpower, as the onion too frequently does. Both leeks and onions make excellent soups ; if a little clear broth is at hand to use instead of water, of course the soup will be richer for it ; bread forms the thickening quality — a slice of white bread cut into dice and thrown into the boiling liquor a few minutes before serving it. There is a very simple soup known as ^' drunkard's broth/' made by boiling sliced onions in water, which is said to be very valuable and grateful to persons recovering from intoxication. A pinch of mixed sweet herbs is a great addition to leek or onion soup. A large white onion, with the core removed and its place filled with a savoury stuffing, then placed in a covered stewpan with a little dripping, cooked in the oven for an hour, and a little thick brown gravy poured over it on the dish. 144 LEEKS AND ONIONS, makes a very savoury and economical little '' plat ^' for a cold winter's evening. The stuffing may be made from any cold meat, minced, and mixed with sharp sauce. Large w^hite onions, boiled till tender, then drained, sliced thinly into a shallow tin, a few nobs of butter placed over them, a liberal powdering of pepper and salt, then some stale cheese shaved as thinly as possible, and a few bread-crumbs sprinkled over all, placed in a quick oven for ten minutes, makes another cheap savoury. A small onion may be introduced with advantage into many preparations of meat, fish, poultry, etc., where its presence is not needful nor perhaps desired, because it will help to bring out the flavour of the other condiments, and if sufficiently small, itself pass unnoticed. For sauces and fine dishes French cooks much prefer to use shallots, their flavour is more delicate. A clove of garlic, too, although a liking for its searching aroma certainly has to be acquired, is yet most suited for use in many madeup dishes. If the salad-bowl be rubbed all over inside with garlic, before breaking the lettuce or cress LEEKS AND ONIONS. 145