FoodNet

The profession of cookery, from a French point of view

1894

Page 21

Presented as published in 1894. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
An ingenious cook will form as endless a variety of compositions as a musician with his seven notes, or a painter with his pigments ; no part of her business offers a more frequent opportunity for the display of her imagination ; but to become a perfect mistress in the art of cleverly extracting flavours, besides the gift of good taste, requires all the experience and skill of the accomplished professor. Hot sauces should be sent to table as hot as SAUCES. 6 1 possible ; and when wine or tliickening has been addedj they should be allowed to boil up again, so that the flavours may be well blended. In compound sauces the flavouring should be so nicely proportioned that no one should pre- dominate over the other, but that the mixture give out a mellow flavour which cannot but be acceptable to the most critical gourmand. Although classed among the elegancies of cookery, they are not necessarily extravagant, or they would never form so important a part of the menu of our honne hourgeoise. With her, even the juice that runs from the meat is " sauce,'^ for it is seldom or never served on the meat dish, as it is in England. That she would consider wasteful, but carefully pouring off every drop, by a few skilful additions it is ^^ lengthened,'^ and then served in SLsaiiciere. Stock forms the foundation of nearly all meat sauces, as it is easily adapted to whatever colour is desired. If clear, bright sauce, which is also to be thick, is required, the stock should be thickened with potato flour, as that is transparent, and wine — either golden sherry or port — is usually added. For a thick sauce not necessarily clear, there 62 SAUCES. are many ways of thickening ; brown roux, wliicli a good cook will make for herself^ and keep by her_, is most preferable. Vegetable juice is the most wholesome colour- ing matter ; spinach juice as a green when available, or a good substitute is to be found in crushed parsley. A most delicious sauce is made from fresh tomatoes, for serving hot with boiled beef or veal ; and when fresh ones are not to be had, the tinned or preserved ones will do for the purpose. They should be frizzled in butter, seasoned, then just covered with good bouillon, a few tiny shallots and a little fragrant *' bouquet''' added to them, and allowed to simmer for an hour, after which it is passed through a strainer. Slices of cold beef or veal laid in this sauce, and allowed to get thoroughly hot through, with a few bits of lean ham or bacon, then dished with finely chopped parsley sifted over all, makes a very capital way of finishing up a joint. A thin clear *^^ sauce piquante " is '^ sauce a la Diable,'' into the composition of which enter shallots and several herbs finely mixed, made SA UCES. 63 mustard, horse-radish grated, salt and pepper, vinegar and oil or Lutter, well stewed together, and a little stock, brown thickening and wine added. In all brown sauces, the principal ingredients will be found to be, roughly stated, shallots, carrots, mushrooms, yolks of eggs, herbs, pars- ley, garlic, cloves, pepper, mustard, vinegar and oil; sometimes white or red wine, with thicken- ing material as required. When making sauces for game and poultry, the goodness should be thoroughly extracted from the giblets and all available bones, by crushing and thoroughly stewing. The pinch of salt must not be omitted in any sauce.