Practical gastronomy and culinary dictionary

The most interesting cookery book of ancient publi- cation is one written by Monsieur Marin in the year 1738. It was called " Les Dons de Comus." M. Marin was cook to the Duchesse de Chaulnes. The author, in treating of the science of cookery, says : ** The science consists in decomposing and in render- ing easy of digestion the viands, in extracting from them light and nourishing juices, and in so mixing them together that no one flavour shall predominate, but that all shall be harmonised and blended." The first cookery book in a modern language was published in Madrid in 1521. Spain has therefore the honour of being the pioneer in this direction, and claims to the merit of having improved and extended the science which recognises the palate, stomach, and digestion. It is, however, supposed that an English- man, a Mr. Alexander Neckham, wrote a book on practical cookery in the twelfth century, and no doubt several quaint volumes followed during the succeeding 20 PEACTICAL GASTRONOMY centuries. Italy comes next to Spain for developing the culinary art ; but France, although now the nurse of all modern cooks, then was in a state of comparative dark- ness with regard to cookery. In 1569 such articles as '* simnels, buns, cakes, biscuits, comfits, caraways, and cracknels " were on sale in the bakers' and confectioners' shops in Great Britain. Li 1580 the delicacies of the Italian table were in- troduced into Paris, and from that time the French made rapid progress in the culinary art, and thus soon surpassed their Italian masters. The first practical cookery book of France was published at Rouen in 1692. Many of its recipes are curious, but nevertheless useful. The frequency with which capers are introduced is extraordinary, the more so as they rarely make their appearance in modern French cookery books, except occasionally in entrees or ragouts. The taste for foreign dishes and higher dishes in cookery (French) made its appearance in England in the seventeenth century, and the cookery books of that period reflected this by publishing recipes under such titles as "To make Portugal dishes," " To make Lady Abergavenny's cheese " and " The Countess of Rutland's receipt for making the rare Banbury cake," which was as much praised as her daughter's pudding. The hog barbecued was roasted whole, stuffed with spice, and basted with Madeira wine. The bill of fare at this time consisted m the month of April of the following : — THE ABT OF COOKERY 21 Green Geese, or Veal and Bacon. Haunch of Venison, roasted. A Lumber Pie. Rabbits and Tarts. Second Course : Cold Lamb. Neat's Tongue Pie. Cold Salmon. Lobsters and Prawns. Asparagus. The following bill of fare was served in a noble- man's family in the month of April 1782 : — Spring Soup, removed with Mackerel. Lamb's ears au Befhem, Tanfey Pudding. Pigeon Comport, Fennel Sauce. Greens, Broccoli, Oyster Sauce. Leg of boiled Lamb, Loin fried. Chickens boiled. Tongue. Rabbits fricassee Brown. Rocom-bole Spinach. Savory Sauce, Plain Butter. Soup Vermicelli, removed with. Crimped Cod fish. Cotelettes a la Maintenon. Lemon Pudding. Jelly, Cheese Cakes. The first really practical and useful work on Enghsh cookery, published in 1662, was called the "Queen's 22 PEACTICAL GASTRONOMY