Practical gastronomy and culinary dictionary

Kitchiner was a professed cook in every sense of the word, for not only did he study the chemistry of cooking in all its details, but he actually cooked and ate of every dish, sauce, or anything else that he prepared himself, or of which he published the recipe, so as to ensure three great points — namely, that the taste was up to the mark, and the food wholesome and economical : matters that are not always observed by the first- class chefs of to-day ! In Dr. Kitchiner's writings there is a good deal to amuse, even if there is not much to instruct us ; at any rate, though only a trifle be gained, yet nothing can be lost by a little study o£ our ancient gastronomer's work. He tells us that it is not right to say that a medical man cannot write a book upon cookery if he is not a practical cook. By an attentive consideration of the "rudiments of cookery," and the respective recipes, a novice in the business of the kitchen may work with facility and certainty of success, and soon become an expert. Dr. Kitchiner was much assisted in his labours by 850 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY Mr. Henry Osborne, the excellent cook to Sir Joseph Banks, who was then President of the Eoyal Society, who had been a great traveller in his time, besides having journeyed round the world, where he picked up some foreign novelties and tastes like other epicures. Several books upon cookery have been written by physicians : — Sir Kenelm Digby, one of the physicians to Charles I. ; Sir Theodore Mayerne, a physician to Henry IV. (in Paris), James I., and afterwards to Charles I. ; Professor Bradley, Dr. Hill, Dr. Le Cointe, Dr. Hunter, and others. He says that a physician, who studies the practice as well as the science of the thing, is the best authority on this subject of cookery ; but if rve ask whether a woman can write a book on cookery, we must see what Dr. Samuel Johnson says on this subject : — " Some people have a foolish way of not minding, or pretend- ing not to mind, what they eat ; for my part, I mind my belly" — and he had one to mind too — " very studiously and very carefully, and I look upon it that he who does not mind his belly will hardly mind anything else." And then, again, he once observed to his friends : " I could write a better book of cookery than has ever yet been written ; it should be a book on philosophical principles ; I would tell what is the best bucher's meat, the proper seasons of different vegetables, and then, iiow to roast, and to boil, and to compound." '* ' Mrs. Glasse's Cookery Book,' which is reckoned the best,'' said Mr. Dilly, the publisher, " was written by Dr. Hill." "Well, sir, this shows," continued Johnson, " how much better the subject of cookery may be treated by a philosopher ; but you shall see what a book of cookery I shall make, and shall agree with Mr. Dilly for the copyright." Miss Seward — Johnson's housekeeper — observed, " That would be Hercules with the distaff, indeed I " " No, madam," replied Johnson, snuffily : " women can spin very well, but they cannot make a good book of cooker3\" Women have made a few of them, though, in later years, and very excellent books they are — being practical if not philoso- phical or Johnsonian.