FoodNetArchive

Practical gastronomy and culinary dictionary

1892

Page 384

Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The manner of laying a table is nearly the same in all parts of the United Kingdom. A centre ornament, whether it be a plateau, an epergne, or a candelabrum, is found very convenient and contributes so much to the good appearance of the table that a dinner is seldom or never set out without some- thing of the kind. A very false taste is, however, often shown in centre ornaments. Strange, ill-assorted nosegays and bouquets of artificial flowers begin to droop or look faded among hot steams. Ornamental articles of family plate, carved, chased, or merely plain, can never be out of place, however old-fashioned. In desserts, richly-cut glass is ornamental, and the foliage and moss, in which the fruits are sometimes embedded, have a good effect. Fine white damask and a green cloth underneath are indispensable. Whether the dinner be of two or three courses, it is managed nearly in the same way. Two dishes of fish, dressed in different ways if suitable, should occupy top and bottom ; and two soups, a white and a brown, or a mild and a high seasoned, are best disposed on each side of the centrepiece; the fish sauces are placed between the centrepiece and the dish of fish to which each is appropriate ; and this, with the decanted wines drunk during dinner, forms the first course. The second course at a purely English dinner, when there are three courses, consists of roasts and stews for the top and bottom ; turkey and fowls or fricandeaux, or ham garnished, or tongue for the sides, with small made dishes for the corners served in covered dishes. The third course consists of game, confectionery, the more delicate vegetables dressed in the French way ; puddings, creams, jellies, &c. Caraffes, with the tumblers belonging to, and placed over them, are laid at proper intervals ; where hock, champagne, &c., &c., are served, they are handed round between the courses. When the third course is cleared away, cheese, butter, a fresh salad, or sliced cucumber, are usually handed round ; the finger- glasses precede the dessert. The dessert at an English table may consist merely of two dishes of fine fruit at top and bottom. Liqueurs are handed round at this stage, and the wines usually drunk after dinner are placed, decanted, on the table along with the dessert. NOTES ON CARVING 835 NOTES ON CARVING. Nothing is more prejudicial than bad carving. A joint, ill- carved at first by one, is alvv^ays disregarded by the other members; and frequently from this circumstance a joint of great weight and price is no longer presentable, and is left, to the loss of the establishment. In serving soup, one ladleful to each plate is sufficient. A steel knife applied to fish is likely to spoil the delicacy of its flavour ; so that it should be helped with a silver slice or trowel, and be eaten with a silver knife and fork. Do not pour sauce over meat or vegetables, but a little on one side. In helping at table, never employ a knife where you can use a spoon. The fairest mode of cutting a ham, so as to serve fat and lean evenly, is to begin at a hole in tlie centre of the thickest part, and cut from it thin circular slices ; by this means also the moisture and flavour of the ham are best preserved. The upper part of a roast sirloin of beef should be carved at the end, and never cut in the middle, unless you wish to destroy the joint in revenge.