FoodNetArchive

Practical gastronomy and culinary dictionary

1892

Page 15

Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Look, again, at Napoleon the Great. When he fought the disastrous battle of Leipsic he was suf- fering frightfully from indigestion caused by eating underdone meat (veal cutlets). Had those cutlets been properly cooked, who knows but the issue of that three days' fight might have been different ? This surely gives us sufficient reason for saying that bad cooking has had something to do in bringmg about the collapse of the terrible bogey of Europe at that time. It is a most serious thing to reflect upon this, for good and evil lie in the hands of a cook ! There are, I fear, but few so conscientious as poor Vatel, the chef of the Prince de Conde, who ran him- self through the heart with his sword because the fish had not arrived in time for a great banquet, at which Louis XIV., le Grand Monarque himself, was to be present. On the "Manuel des Amphitryons " Grimod de la Reyni^re observes compassionately that we enjoy the result of the works of our cooks, without considering the cost of the ineffable enjoyment they procure for us, and without reflecting that they only derive, from their incessant exertions, impaired health and means of sub- sistence that are often precarious and often moderate. "They spend their best days in heat and obscurity, and their last in poverty too often bordering on destitution." " A good meal is one of the greatest enjoyments of 40 PEACTICAL GASTRONOMY human life," and greater regard for those who prepare them ought, in many cases, to be shown ; as the practice of cooking is attended with so many difficulties, so many disagreeable circumstances, and even dangers, it is but right that we should endeavour to render the situation of the cook as comfortable and agreeable as possible. The chef, to whom the management of the kitchen is confided, is a great power in the house, for no one can be more instrumental to make the reputation of a house than the chef. He should be the ideal of per- fection to the other servants, who, after the manner of other employees, are more steadily praised into good conduct and discipline than scolded at. The chef should always commend his staff when they do well. Judicious approval will often convert an ordinary servant into a good one. How much force there is in the old couplet — "Be to their faults a little blmd, And to their virtues very kind." It is always wisest for a cook, man or woman, to be on pleasant terms with the servants of an establish- ment, especially with those who wait at table, as this will often help to please the diner, as he will know what dishes are liked, and whether the work has pleased in the dining-room. There are many who have the supervision of waiting who frequently have it in their power, not only to contribute much towards the satis- faction of the guests, but also to contribute to the cook's ideas, who is often at a loss as to how he can THE COOK AND THE KITCHEN 41 please them. No cook should ever think any part of his business too trifling to be well done. Although no one has ever succeeded in pleasing all palates, because the tastes are almost as different as faces, yet palates must be studied by the cook, and if he be industrious and energetic he will with tact soon acquire a knowledge of the particular tastes of his patrons.