Pot-pourri from a Surrey garden

and yet in a country how traditions linger and customs cling ! We saw and did many interesting things, thanks to the cordial hospitality and kindness of our host and hostess. I, however, will only allude to certain domestic details which I learnt during my stay, and which may instruct you as they did me. What interested me much from a housekeeping point of view was, not only the excellence of the cooking, as that now can be seen else- where, but the management of the kitchen. It seems a small thing to state as an example, but I was told that no French housekeeper who at all respects herself would ever allow lard to come into her house. Everything is fried in what they call graisse, and we call suet. Five or six pounds are bought from the butcher — anywhere in England they will let you have it at sixpence a pound. This is boiled for two or three hours, skimmed and strained, and poured into jars ready for use, taking the place of lard when butter or oil are not used. Since I came home I have never had any lard in my house. Many people here do not know that dripping can be cleared by frying some pieces of raw potato in it till they turn brown ; this will clarify it nicely. All chickens, game, birds of any kind, are roasted far more slowly than with us, and at wood fires. The livers, gizzards, &c., are chopped up and put inside the bird. It is always basted with butter, which is poured round the bird when^sent to table. This is a very great improve- ment with all birds, especially fowls, on the pale watery gravy or the thick tasteless 'sauce as served in England. Our method of sticking the liver and gizzard into the wing is a useless waste, for they shrivel into a hardened mass before our fierce coal fires. The French, if they do not think the livers, etc., necessary for improving the gravy in the roasting often make them the foundation of a pie or side-dish. This cutting up the liver and basting APRIL 79 with butter is a hint well worth remembering, and should be universally applied in the roasting of all birds. I noticed that all roast meat was basted with fat or butter, and the gravy served just as it was, without straining or clarifying, with all the goodness of the meat in it. This we have practised ever since at home, with great approval. Many people would object to this as greasy. I only say, ' Try it.' A very good, easily made French soup is as follows : — Potag"e Paysanne. — Cut one large onion into dice, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, and fry a nice golden colour. Then take a half-inch-thick slice of bread toasted to the same colour ; break it into small pieces, and put them into the stewpan with a pint of good stock. Simmer gently for thirty-five minutes, then serve. Quantity for four persons. The following receipt for a tame duck I can tho- roughly recommend ; if you follow it exactly, it cannot go wrong :—