In the old convent gardens Calvary Clover was sup-
posed not to grow unless sown on Good Friday. It is
a curious little annual, with a blood-red spot on each leaf,
and the seed-pod is surrounded by a case which pulls
out, or rather unwinds, into a miniature crown of thorns.
A friend has asked me what she should plant on the
front of a lovely old house facing south. It now has on
it at one end Ivy and on the other an old Wistaria. My
first advice is take away the Ivy ; the place is too good for
it, and it hides the beautiful old brickwork. An old
Wistaria is quite lovely if part or all of it is dragged away
from the house and trained over wooden posts, either in
front of a window or a door, so as to form a kind of
pergola. Until this is done, or it is grown as they do
it in Japan — namely, as a standard, with its branches
spread and supported all around, and you stand beneath
it— you have no idea of the joy that is to be got out of a
Wistaria, with its beautiful lilac blooms hanging from the
MARCH 43
bare and twisted branches above your head and the blue
sky behind them. The whole effect is indeed different
and very superior to that of seeing the blooms hanging
straight and flat from branches nailed close to the wall.
Unless it is protected from the north and east, it is of
course more liable, in unfavourable springs, to have its
blooms injured by late frosts. The plant itself, I believe,
is absolutely hardy.
The creepers I recommended to plant on a south
front are as follows : —
Magnolia grandiflora — the roots must be pulled
about, not cut, and manured in the autumn for the first
few years after planting, to make it grow quickly ; a
Yellow Banksia, single if possible, but they are not easy
to get ; an early yellow Dutch Honeysuckle ; a Pyrus
japonica ; Chimonantkus fragrans, now called Calyc-
anthus prcecox ; a Beve d'Or Eose; a La Marque Eose
(no house is perfect without one) ; a few Clematises, which
in non-chalky soils must have chalk and lime or brick-
rubbish put to their roots, not manure ; Choisya ternata,
a low-growing shrub, wherever there is room between the
other plants ; a Marechal Niel Eose. Forsythia suspensa,
Jasminum nudiflorum, Clematis montana, and late Dutch
Honeysuckle will all do on the east and west sides of a
house as well as on the south. Two other things that
would grow on the south wall are Bignonia radicans and
Garry a elliptica, a charming evergreen with fascinating
catkins, which form in January. The male or pollen-
bearing plant is the handsomest.
This list I actually made in the autumn, which is
really the best time for planting ; but there is often so
much to do then that planting is apt to get postponed, and
rather than lose a whole year, spring planting is quite
worth trying. In damp soils I really believe it answers
best. In dry soils, or where a plant is likely to be robbed
44 POT-POURRI FROM A SURREY GARDEN
by the roots of neighbouring shrubs, or by old-established
climbers, it is not a bad plan to sink in the ground an old
tub or half-cask, or even an old tin footbath with the
bottom knocked out. Then fill it with the best soil, and
put in your plant ; it will benefit more in this way from
watering in dry weather. There is nothing so disappoint-
ing as to lose a plant in spring, as that means the loss of
a whole year.
Page 26
Presented as published in 1898. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
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In the old convent gardens Calvary Clover was sup-
posed not to grow unless sown on Good Friday. It is
a curious little annual, with a blood-red spot on each leaf,
and the seed-pod is surrounded by a case which pulls
out, or rather unwinds, into a miniature crown of thorns.
A friend has asked me what she should plant on the
front of a lovely old house facing south. It now has on
it at one end Ivy and on the other an old Wistaria. My
first advice is take away the Ivy ; the place is too good for
it, and it hides the beautiful old brickwork. An old
Wistaria is quite lovely if part or all of it is dragged away
from the house and trained over wooden posts, either in
front of a window or a door, so as to form a kind of
pergola. Until this is done, or it is grown as they do
it in Japan — namely, as a standard, with its branches
spread and supported all around, and you stand beneath
it— you have no idea of the joy that is to be got out of a
Wistaria, with its beautiful lilac blooms hanging from the
MARCH 43
bare and twisted branches above your head and the blue
sky behind them. The whole effect is indeed different
and very superior to that of seeing the blooms hanging
straight and flat from branches nailed close to the wall.
Unless it is protected from the north and east, it is of
course more liable, in unfavourable springs, to have its
blooms injured by late frosts. The plant itself, I believe,
is absolutely hardy.
The creepers I recommended to plant on a south
front are as follows : —
Magnolia grandiflora — the roots must be pulled
about, not cut, and manured in the autumn for the first
few years after planting, to make it grow quickly ; a
Yellow Banksia, single if possible, but they are not easy
to get ; an early yellow Dutch Honeysuckle ; a Pyrus
japonica ; Chimonantkus fragrans, now called Calyc-
anthus prcecox ; a Beve d'Or Eose; a La Marque Eose
(no house is perfect without one) ; a few Clematises, which
in non-chalky soils must have chalk and lime or brick-
rubbish put to their roots, not manure ; Choisya ternata,
a low-growing shrub, wherever there is room between the
other plants ; a Marechal Niel Eose. Forsythia suspensa,
Jasminum nudiflorum, Clematis montana, and late Dutch
Honeysuckle will all do on the east and west sides of a
house as well as on the south. Two other things that
would grow on the south wall are Bignonia radicans and
Garry a elliptica, a charming evergreen with fascinating
catkins, which form in January. The male or pollen-
bearing plant is the handsomest.
This list I actually made in the autumn, which is
really the best time for planting ; but there is often so
much to do then that planting is apt to get postponed, and
rather than lose a whole year, spring planting is quite
worth trying. In damp soils I really believe it answers
best. In dry soils, or where a plant is likely to be robbed
44 POT-POURRI FROM A SURREY GARDEN
by the roots of neighbouring shrubs, or by old-established
climbers, it is not a bad plan to sink in the ground an old
tub or half-cask, or even an old tin footbath with the
bottom knocked out. Then fill it with the best soil, and
put in your plant ; it will benefit more in this way from
watering in dry weather. There is nothing so disappoint-
ing as to lose a plant in spring, as that means the loss of
a whole year.