All my tarts throughout the year are made with the
crust baked apart, and the fruit, stewed previously, juicy
and cold. Shortly before dinner make the paste called
in ' Dainty Dishes ' ' crisp paste ' for tarts ; crumple up
kitchen paper into a mound the height you wish your
crust to be, place it in the pie-dish — the round-shaped
dishes are the prettiest — cover this with a clean sheet of
buttered paper, lay your paste over this, bake in the usual
way. When done, lift off the crust, take out the paper,
pour in the fruit (which can be iced, if desired), put a
little raw white of egg round the rim of the pie-dish, and
replace the crust. In this way an orange or a strawberry
tart can be made without cooking the fruit at all, except
in the usual compote way of pouring boiling syrup over it.
Towards the end of February is the best time for
making Orange Marmalade (see ' Dainty Dishes '), as the
Seville oranges in London are then at their best. In all
cases when old jam pots, glasses, &c., are used for pre-
serving, it is very desirable to wash them thoroughly in
clean water, avoiding all soda or soap, and, when dry,
powder them with a little sulphur and wipe clean. If
soda is used in anything connected with fruit, it has an
injurious chemical action.
The following are the translations of a few careful
receipts which we^e written out by a very excellent French
chef. They belong to so entirely different a cuisine from
our ordinary modest and economical receipts, that I think
they may be not without interest to some people. It is
28 POT-POURRI FROM A SURREY GARDEN
worth noting how, when a really good French cook wishes
to instruct, he is careful to go into the minutest details.
Pot au feu Soup. — Proportions : 15 Ibs. of beef,
5Jlbs. of veal, 1 chicken, 2| gallons of water, 3 fineicarrots,
1 big turnip, 1 large onion, a bunch of parsley, half a head
of celery, a parsnip, 2 cloves, and some salt.
Remove the fat and tie up the beef and the veal, putting
them in a large saucepan ; fill the saucepan with cold
water to within a little more than an inch from the
brim, place the saucepan on the fire with the lid off,
add some salt, and let it boil till the scum shows on the
surface ; remove it with a skimmer. As soon as it seems
inclined to boil over, add a few spoonfuls of cold water, so
as to make the scum accumulate as much as possible.
When at last it boils violently, drop in the vegetables ;
remove the saucepan to one side of the fire, so that it
shall boil only on one side ; put on the lid, and let it boil
undisturbed, evenly and regularly. After two hours
remove the veal. An hour later add the chicken, and,
three hours after, strain the soup, without stirring it up,
through a strainer on to a napkin stretched over a
receptacle large enough to contain the soup. The soup
may be skimmed before or after straining.
This stock does for making any kind of soup, Julienne,
Brunoise, Croute au pot, and for all purees of vegetables.
Consomme*.— Consomme means the foundation of the
soup ; this foundation ought always to be clear, lightly
coloured, and, above all, strong.
Page 17
Presented as published in 1898. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
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All my tarts throughout the year are made with the
crust baked apart, and the fruit, stewed previously, juicy
and cold. Shortly before dinner make the paste called
in ' Dainty Dishes ' ' crisp paste ' for tarts ; crumple up
kitchen paper into a mound the height you wish your
crust to be, place it in the pie-dish — the round-shaped
dishes are the prettiest — cover this with a clean sheet of
buttered paper, lay your paste over this, bake in the usual
way. When done, lift off the crust, take out the paper,
pour in the fruit (which can be iced, if desired), put a
little raw white of egg round the rim of the pie-dish, and
replace the crust. In this way an orange or a strawberry
tart can be made without cooking the fruit at all, except
in the usual compote way of pouring boiling syrup over it.
Towards the end of February is the best time for
making Orange Marmalade (see ' Dainty Dishes '), as the
Seville oranges in London are then at their best. In all
cases when old jam pots, glasses, &c., are used for pre-
serving, it is very desirable to wash them thoroughly in
clean water, avoiding all soda or soap, and, when dry,
powder them with a little sulphur and wipe clean. If
soda is used in anything connected with fruit, it has an
injurious chemical action.
The following are the translations of a few careful
receipts which we^e written out by a very excellent French
chef. They belong to so entirely different a cuisine from
our ordinary modest and economical receipts, that I think
they may be not without interest to some people. It is
28 POT-POURRI FROM A SURREY GARDEN
worth noting how, when a really good French cook wishes
to instruct, he is careful to go into the minutest details.
Pot au feu Soup. — Proportions : 15 Ibs. of beef,
5Jlbs. of veal, 1 chicken, 2| gallons of water, 3 fineicarrots,
1 big turnip, 1 large onion, a bunch of parsley, half a head
of celery, a parsnip, 2 cloves, and some salt.
Remove the fat and tie up the beef and the veal, putting
them in a large saucepan ; fill the saucepan with cold
water to within a little more than an inch from the
brim, place the saucepan on the fire with the lid off,
add some salt, and let it boil till the scum shows on the
surface ; remove it with a skimmer. As soon as it seems
inclined to boil over, add a few spoonfuls of cold water, so
as to make the scum accumulate as much as possible.
When at last it boils violently, drop in the vegetables ;
remove the saucepan to one side of the fire, so that it
shall boil only on one side ; put on the lid, and let it boil
undisturbed, evenly and regularly. After two hours
remove the veal. An hour later add the chicken, and,
three hours after, strain the soup, without stirring it up,
through a strainer on to a napkin stretched over a
receptacle large enough to contain the soup. The soup
may be skimmed before or after straining.
This stock does for making any kind of soup, Julienne,
Brunoise, Croute au pot, and for all purees of vegetables.
Consomme*.— Consomme means the foundation of the
soup ; this foundation ought always to be clear, lightly
coloured, and, above all, strong.