' The ordinary system which is employed at the
oyster shops is radically false, for all the juice is
lost, and the oyster is left to become dry and insipid
upon the flat shell, which effectually answers as a
drain to convey off the liquid, which is to the
oyster what the milk is to the cocoa-nut. Those
who wish to eat oysters as they should be eaten
should act as follows. Hold the mollusk firmly in
a cloth, insert the point of a knife neatly just before
the edge of the upper shell, give a quick decided
pressure till the point is felt to glide along the
polished inner surface of the under shell ; force it
sharply to the hinge, give a smart wrench rather
towards the right hand, and off comes the shell.
Then pass the knife quickly under the oyster,
separate it from its attachment, let it fall into the
lower shell, floating in its juice, lift it quickly to
the lips, and eat it before the delicate aroma has
been dissipated into the atmosphere. There is as
much difference between an oyster thus opened
xii INTRODUCTION.
and eaten, as between champagne frothing and
leaping out of the silver-necked bottle, and the
same wine after it has been allowed to stand
for six hours with the cork removed. There is
another method of eating oysters, wherein no knife
is required, and not the least skill in opening is
needed, the only requisite being a bright fire. You
pick out a glowing spot in the fire, where there are
no flames and no black pieces of coal to dart jets
of smoke exactly in the place where they are not
wanted. You then insert a row of oysters into the
glowing coals, taking care to keep their mouths
outward and within an easy grasp of the tongs, and
their convexity downwards. Presently a spitting
and hissing noise is heard, which gradually increases
till the shells begin to open and the juice is seen
boiling merrily within, the moUusk itself becoming
whiter and more opaque as the operation continues.
There is no rule for ascertaining the precise point
at which the cooking is completed, for every one
has his own taste, and must learn by personal
experience. A little practice soon makes perfect,
and the expert operator will be able to keep up a
continual supply as fast as he can manage to eat
them. When they are thoroughly cooked they
should be taken from the fire, a second batch
inserted, and the still hissing and spluttering mol-
lusks be eaten " scorching hot." . . . No one who
has not eaten oysters dressed in this primitive mode
has the least idea of the piquant flavour of which
they are capable. Stewed in their own juice, the
action of fire only brings out the full flavour, and as
the juice is consumed as well as the oyster, there is
no waste and no dissipation of the indescribable
but potent aroma.'
OYSTERS A LA MODE.
Oyster Aigrettes.
Aigrettes aux Huitres. ✪ Oyster Aigrettes
Page 3 · 1 recipe record on this page
Presented as published in 1888. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
' The ordinary system which is employed at the oyster shops is radically false, for all the juice is lost, and the oyster is left to become dry and insipid upon the flat shell, which effectually answers as a drain to convey off the liquid, which is to the oyster what the milk is to the cocoa-nut. Those who wish to eat oysters as they should be eaten should act as follows. Hold the mollusk firmly in a cloth, insert the point of a knife neatly just before the edge of the upper shell, give a quick decided pressure till the point is felt to glide along the polished inner surface of the under shell ; force it sharply to the hinge, give a smart wrench rather towards the right hand, and off comes the shell. Then pass the knife quickly under the oyster, separate it from its attachment, let it fall into the lower shell, floating in its juice, lift it quickly to the lips, and eat it before the delicate aroma has been dissipated into the atmosphere. There is as much difference between an oyster thus opened
xii INTRODUCTION.
and eaten, as between champagne frothing and
leaping out of the silver-necked bottle, and the
same wine after it has been allowed to stand
for six hours with the cork removed. There is
another method of eating oysters, wherein no knife
is required, and not the least skill in opening is
needed, the only requisite being a bright fire. You
pick out a glowing spot in the fire, where there are
no flames and no black pieces of coal to dart jets
of smoke exactly in the place where they are not
wanted. You then insert a row of oysters into the
glowing coals, taking care to keep their mouths
outward and within an easy grasp of the tongs, and
their convexity downwards. Presently a spitting
and hissing noise is heard, which gradually increases
till the shells begin to open and the juice is seen
boiling merrily within, the mollusk itself becoming
whiter and more opaque as the operation continues.
There is no rule for ascertaining the precise point
at which the cooking is completed, for every one
has his own taste, and must learn by personal
experience. A little practice soon makes perfect,
and the expert operator will be able to keep up a
continual supply as fast as he can manage to eat
them. When they are thoroughly cooked they
should be taken from the fire, a second batch
inserted, and the still hissing and spluttering mollusks be eaten " scorching hot." . . . No one who
has not eaten oysters dressed in this primitive mode
has the least idea of the piquant flavour of which
they are capable. Stewed in their own juice, the
action of fire only brings out the full flavour, and as
the juice is consumed as well as the oyster, there is
no waste and no dissipation of the indescribable
but potent aroma.'
Oyster Aigrettes.
Aigrettes aux Huitres.
Records on this page
Oyster Aigrettes