FoodNet

Our viands

1893

Page 79

Presented as published in 1893. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
This would seem to prove that mustard as a condiment for roast beef was in common use in Shakespeare's time ; but it was probably used then coarsely pounded, for we are told that mustard in its present finely-powdered form, was introduced by a Mrs. Clements, of Durham, about the year 1729, and was hence known as Durham mustard. We sometimes think that a return to the old form — that is, the genuine seed coarsely pounded — would be preferable to the frequently adulterated article which now often appears at table. The French make their mustard with tarragon vinegar, which renders it more agreeable to some palates. Horse-radish is another English condiment largely con- sumed with the national roast beef, but accidents have from time to time occurred from the likeness of the root to the poisonous aconite or monk's-hood. The leaves of the two plants are, however, so very distinct, that they cannot be mistaken the one for the other when growing. The adaptation of certain herbs and sauces as condi- ments to particular meats dates from very early times. The Paschal lamb was to be eaten with bitter herbs. What these herbs were is not definitely known, but mint, which is still the favourite condiment for lamb, was perhaps one, since we find it mentioned, with rue, and all manner of herbs, as being tithed by the Pharisees. Mint sauce and gooseberry sauce are the appropriate condiments for lamb. Red currant jelly and tomato sauce, and sometimes that very dirty-looking seaweed known as laver, are eaten with roast mutton, and caper sauce with boiled ; whilst on veal we bestow a forcemeat composed of various herbs, such as thyme, parsley, marjoram, savory, basil, lemon peel, pepper, salt, a soupQon of onion and mace or nutmeg, suet, i6o OUR VIANDS and bread crumbs — which same forcemeat we use for turkeys and other poultry. With game we serve bread sauce ; whilst pork, ducks, and geese are considered properly dressed with a seasoning of sage and onions, and apple sauce. These are the chief of old English condiments, used from time immemorial; and it is only of late years that these things have been supplemented by the highly- flavoured Indian curries and chutneys, and by a variety of piquant sauces with names sufficient to make our grand- mothers' hair stand on end. Our schools of cookery have made us familiar with aspic, bechamel, consomm^, maitre d'hotel sauce, mayonnaise, sauce piquante, and a variety of other names which glide smoothly from the tongue of the initiated, but are meaningless to those who have not studied in the modern schools.