This would seem to prove that mustard as a condiment
for roast beef was in common use in Shakespeare's time ;
but it was probably used then coarsely pounded, for we are
told that mustard in its present finely-powdered form, was
introduced by a Mrs. Clements, of Durham, about the year
1729, and was hence known as Durham mustard. We
sometimes think that a return to the old form — that is, the
genuine seed coarsely pounded — would be preferable to the
frequently adulterated article which now often appears at
table. The French make their mustard with tarragon
vinegar, which renders it more agreeable to some palates.
Horse-radish is another English condiment largely con-
sumed with the national roast beef, but accidents have
from time to time occurred from the likeness of the root to
the poisonous aconite or monk's-hood. The leaves of the
two plants are, however, so very distinct, that they cannot
be mistaken the one for the other when growing.
The adaptation of certain herbs and sauces as condi-
ments to particular meats dates from very early times. The
Paschal lamb was to be eaten with bitter herbs. What
these herbs were is not definitely known, but mint, which
is still the favourite condiment for lamb, was perhaps one,
since we find it mentioned, with rue, and all manner of
herbs, as being tithed by the Pharisees. Mint sauce and
gooseberry sauce are the appropriate condiments for lamb.
Red currant jelly and tomato sauce, and sometimes that
very dirty-looking seaweed known as laver, are eaten with
roast mutton, and caper sauce with boiled ; whilst on veal
we bestow a forcemeat composed of various herbs, such
as thyme, parsley, marjoram, savory, basil, lemon peel,
pepper, salt, a soupQon of onion and mace or nutmeg, suet,
i6o OUR VIANDS
and bread crumbs — which same forcemeat we use for
turkeys and other poultry. With game we serve bread
sauce ; whilst pork, ducks, and geese are considered
properly dressed with a seasoning of sage and onions, and
apple sauce.
These are the chief of old English condiments, used
from time immemorial; and it is only of late years that
these things have been supplemented by the highly-
flavoured Indian curries and chutneys, and by a variety of
piquant sauces with names sufficient to make our grand-
mothers' hair stand on end. Our schools of cookery have
made us familiar with aspic, bechamel, consomm^, maitre
d'hotel sauce, mayonnaise, sauce piquante, and a variety of
other names which glide smoothly from the tongue of the
initiated, but are meaningless to those who have not studied
in the modern schools.
Our viands
1893Page 79
Presented as published in 1893. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
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This would seem to prove that mustard as a condiment
for roast beef was in common use in Shakespeare's time ;
but it was probably used then coarsely pounded, for we are
told that mustard in its present finely-powdered form, was
introduced by a Mrs. Clements, of Durham, about the year
1729, and was hence known as Durham mustard. We
sometimes think that a return to the old form — that is, the
genuine seed coarsely pounded — would be preferable to the
frequently adulterated article which now often appears at
table. The French make their mustard with tarragon
vinegar, which renders it more agreeable to some palates.
Horse-radish is another English condiment largely con-
sumed with the national roast beef, but accidents have
from time to time occurred from the likeness of the root to
the poisonous aconite or monk's-hood. The leaves of the
two plants are, however, so very distinct, that they cannot
be mistaken the one for the other when growing.
The adaptation of certain herbs and sauces as condi-
ments to particular meats dates from very early times. The
Paschal lamb was to be eaten with bitter herbs. What
these herbs were is not definitely known, but mint, which
is still the favourite condiment for lamb, was perhaps one,
since we find it mentioned, with rue, and all manner of
herbs, as being tithed by the Pharisees. Mint sauce and
gooseberry sauce are the appropriate condiments for lamb.
Red currant jelly and tomato sauce, and sometimes that
very dirty-looking seaweed known as laver, are eaten with
roast mutton, and caper sauce with boiled ; whilst on veal
we bestow a forcemeat composed of various herbs, such
as thyme, parsley, marjoram, savory, basil, lemon peel,
pepper, salt, a soupQon of onion and mace or nutmeg, suet,
i6o OUR VIANDS
and bread crumbs — which same forcemeat we use for
turkeys and other poultry. With game we serve bread
sauce ; whilst pork, ducks, and geese are considered
properly dressed with a seasoning of sage and onions, and
apple sauce.
These are the chief of old English condiments, used
from time immemorial; and it is only of late years that
these things have been supplemented by the highly-
flavoured Indian curries and chutneys, and by a variety of
piquant sauces with names sufficient to make our grand-
mothers' hair stand on end. Our schools of cookery have
made us familiar with aspic, bechamel, consomm^, maitre
d'hotel sauce, mayonnaise, sauce piquante, and a variety of
other names which glide smoothly from the tongue of the
initiated, but are meaningless to those who have not studied
in the modern schools.