starving followers hunted foxes and the great Polar bears,
shows how hunger will whet the appetite ; and certainly, if
the choice lay between old boots, skins, and candle ends,
and a seal steak, or piece of whale, there is no doubt which
would be taken. We are told 'the seal, when young, is
excellent, and as a material for soup is quite equal to the
hare ; while the skin of any of the Cetacea, especially that of
the whalebone whale, if boiled down to a jelly, is a dish fit
" to set before a king." It is often sent in hermetically-
closed tins from Greenland to Christian IX., of Denmark,
and therefore has in reality that destination/
When, however, we turn to countries where food is
plentiful, we are surprised at the singularities of taste in the
choice of viands. Take, for instance, China, with its fatted
dogs, its bird-nest soup, and trepang, all of which seem to
us disgusting, yet doubtless had we been bred in China we
should have esteemed them delicacies, as the Chinese do.
There is no reason why dogs should not be good eating
when well and carefully fed ; but we from time immemorial
have made of them such pets and companions that to eat
them would seem like cannibalism. As to the birds' nests,
they are of a peculiar kind, made of a gelatinous substance,
and might probably be esteemed a delicacy by ourselves,
were they not too scarce for export. Rats and mice are
also relished by the Celestials, and in the account of the
astonishing escape from death of some entombed miners in
America, we read that they managed to preserve life by
catching and eating the rats which came to prey upon them.
This was, of course, a case of dire necessity ; but an African
traveller tells of a little Bushman, who picked up the mice
which had been caught, and after putting them in the hot
UNAPPRECIATED TRIFLES 147
ashes for a few moments, devoured them greedily half-raw,
entrails and all.
There is no one in England so poor as to eat these
rodents willingly, but we remember hearing a French
gentleman relate how, during the siege of Paris, he and
his companions were attracted by a savoury smell in a
restaurant, and determined w&te qui coute to satisfy their
hunger with the appetising delicacy. Upon paying a good
round sum they secured the dish, and learnt with surprise
that they had partaken of a ragout of rats. This was, of
course, an exceptional dish ; but the French habitually
indulge in some viands which we despise, as, for instance,
frogs. Of these, the hind legs only are taken, skinned, and
the claws twisted together. In this form they resemble
delicate little lamb cutlets, and are, as we can testify,
extremely palatable. Then, all along the sea coasts of
France and Italy may be seen the octopus occupying a
place in the fishermen's baskets, and often boiled in
cauldrons of oil in the streets, and taken out to be offered
for sale to the passer-by, always with the recommendation,
' It is good, very good; ' and, indeed, it smells good, and is
said to enter largely into the savoury soups at the hotels.
Our viands
1893Page 72
Presented as published in 1893. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
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starving followers hunted foxes and the great Polar bears,
shows how hunger will whet the appetite ; and certainly, if
the choice lay between old boots, skins, and candle ends,
and a seal steak, or piece of whale, there is no doubt which
would be taken. We are told 'the seal, when young, is
excellent, and as a material for soup is quite equal to the
hare ; while the skin of any of the Cetacea, especially that of
the whalebone whale, if boiled down to a jelly, is a dish fit
" to set before a king." It is often sent in hermetically-
closed tins from Greenland to Christian IX., of Denmark,
and therefore has in reality that destination/
When, however, we turn to countries where food is
plentiful, we are surprised at the singularities of taste in the
choice of viands. Take, for instance, China, with its fatted
dogs, its bird-nest soup, and trepang, all of which seem to
us disgusting, yet doubtless had we been bred in China we
should have esteemed them delicacies, as the Chinese do.
There is no reason why dogs should not be good eating
when well and carefully fed ; but we from time immemorial
have made of them such pets and companions that to eat
them would seem like cannibalism. As to the birds' nests,
they are of a peculiar kind, made of a gelatinous substance,
and might probably be esteemed a delicacy by ourselves,
were they not too scarce for export. Rats and mice are
also relished by the Celestials, and in the account of the
astonishing escape from death of some entombed miners in
America, we read that they managed to preserve life by
catching and eating the rats which came to prey upon them.
This was, of course, a case of dire necessity ; but an African
traveller tells of a little Bushman, who picked up the mice
which had been caught, and after putting them in the hot
UNAPPRECIATED TRIFLES 147
ashes for a few moments, devoured them greedily half-raw,
entrails and all.
There is no one in England so poor as to eat these
rodents willingly, but we remember hearing a French
gentleman relate how, during the siege of Paris, he and
his companions were attracted by a savoury smell in a
restaurant, and determined w&te qui coute to satisfy their
hunger with the appetising delicacy. Upon paying a good
round sum they secured the dish, and learnt with surprise
that they had partaken of a ragout of rats. This was, of
course, an exceptional dish ; but the French habitually
indulge in some viands which we despise, as, for instance,
frogs. Of these, the hind legs only are taken, skinned, and
the claws twisted together. In this form they resemble
delicate little lamb cutlets, and are, as we can testify,
extremely palatable. Then, all along the sea coasts of
France and Italy may be seen the octopus occupying a
place in the fishermen's baskets, and often boiled in
cauldrons of oil in the streets, and taken out to be offered
for sale to the passer-by, always with the recommendation,
' It is good, very good; ' and, indeed, it smells good, and is
said to enter largely into the savoury soups at the hotels.