FoodNet

Our viands

1893

Page 54

Presented as published in 1893. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
A prominent feature that all travellers record as taking place at the time is the handing about of eggs dyed of various colours and gilt, given as gifts to each other, and even to strangers, in honour of the great Spring fast. EGGS 113 Whether the Nowroose was originally intended to com- memorate the Deluge or the Creation may be questioned, but the fact remains that here as elsewhere we find " painted eggs " as gifts heralding the return of the sun in Spring at the annual resurrection of Nature.' The derivation of our Easter eggs from these ancient sources is evident; it is not the only Pagan custom adapted to Christianity by the early Church, and to quote once more from the very interesting article referred to : — 'When Pope Paul V. drew up a ritual to be used in England, Ireland, and Scotland, among many other prayers of Benediction for Eastertide was the following : — " Bless, Lord, we beseech Thee, this Thy creature of Eggs, that it may become a wholesome sustenance to Thy faithful servants, eating it in thankfulness to Thee on account of the Resurrection of our Lord." Countless thousands of eggs were thus annually blessed by the priests at Easter, both before and after they were coloured. Having obtained the blessing, the eggs became holy gifts, the bestowal of which conferred much benefit on both givers and receivers. It became a custom on Good Friday to "offer eggs and bacon to the Lord Christ," and thus special favours were secured to the donors. Some of our early Reformation records bring strange matters before those who care to dip into them ; not the least strange referring to the mode of making "presentations of eggs to the Cross." It is a custom still in vogue in some parts of the Continent for each member of a parish to present the priest with an egg on Easter morning.' In process of time Easter eggs, which were originally given and received as symbols of the Resurrection, degenerated H ii4 OUR VIANDS into mere objects of sport, and were used as balls, or for the performance of dances, which often took place in churches ; thus we are told that * eggs always rose in price at Easter, they were boiled very hard in water coloured with red, blue, or violet dyes, with inscriptions or landscapes traced upon them ; these were offered as presents among the valentines of the year, but more frequently played with by the boys as balls, for ball-playing on Easter Monday was universal in every rank. Even the clergy could not forego its delights, and made this game a part of their service. Bishops and deans took the ball into the church, and at the commencement of the autiphone began to dance, throwing the ball to the choristers, who handed it to each other during the time of the dancing and autiphone. All then retired for refreshment ; a gammon of bacon, eaten in abhorrence of the Jews, was a standard dish ; with a tansy pudding, symbolical of the bitter herbs commanded at the paschal feast.' *