FoodNet

Our viands

1893

Page 52

Presented as published in 1893. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The problem which puzzled the learned, centuries ago, as to which was first created, the egg or the hen, has never yet been unravelled. Theologians would probably say, the hen, certainly ; but Darwin would be in favour of the egg, as being of the nature of that protoplasm from which all life originates. The ancients were certainly of Darwin's opinion, and looked upon the earth itself as developed from an egg by the power of various divinities, hence the egg became a sacred symbol in many countries, was hung up in Egyptian temples, and represented in paintings and sculptures as encircled in the folds of the good Agatho- dsemon, the serpent worshipped in so many lands, and which was doubtless connected with that other famous egg of antiquity, the serpent's egg of the Druids. If we visit the British Museum we shall see eggs and egg-stands of various shapes and sizes, which have been i io OUR VIANDS found in tombs in Egypt, Greece, and Etruria ; among the Etruscan relics are several ostrich eggs beautifully painted. These sepulchral eggs were, doubtless, symbolical of a future life, but were also probably designed as food for the dead, for it was well-nigh a universal practice to provide food for the departed spirit, a practice still in use among savages. The eggs which are given at Easter time are supposed to symbolise the Resurrection, but it is certain that the custom originated in pre-Christian times. Eggs wrapped in various-coloured ribbons, and boiled — thus receiving the dye from the ribbon used — were formerly sent as Easter gifts. These are still sometimes seen in little shops, but the Easter eggs now sent as presents by those who can afford them do not owe their origin to any feathered fowl, but are artificially made of various substances, and filled with gifts of differing value, from chocolate creams to diamond rings or costly shawls. It is both curious and interesting to note that in almost all countries this custom of giving and receiving brightly coloured eggs at a spring festival, has prevailed from time immemorial ; hence, probably, we see in the painted ostrich eggs from Etruscan tombs, which are at least two thousand years old, the spring gift of friends to the beloved dead. A writer in the Standard some years ago, in a very interesting article traced this custom to China ; he says : — ' Gustave Schlegel, during his official residence in China as representative of the Netherlands, in his interesting and erudite researches through a mass of Chinese literature discovered that the "painted eggs," as they are called in China, were used in the great Spring Festival of Tsing-ming, and are noticed EGGS in