FoodNet

Our viands

1893

Page 113

Presented as published in 1893. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
' Pliny says that it is one of the most valuable plants to man. Homer relates that it was to the virtues of the yellow garlic that Ulysses owed his fortunate escape from being turned into a pig by Circe as well as his companions, whom he delivered from this disagreeable transformation.' Although the Greeks cultivated several of the onion tribe for culinary purposes, they are said to have regarded onion- eaters in such abhorrence as to look upon them as profane P 226 OUR VIANDS persons. This we might readily infer from the straight classical nose of the race, to which fastidious organ the rank smell of raw onions would be peculiarly abhorrent. Even to ourselve?, the smell of onions or garlic in a public con- veyance or place of amusement, is intensely disagreeable, and the strongly-flavoured dishes of the Spaniards and Portuguese — the people of all Europe most given to the eating of garlic — are most unpleasant to the palate of Englishmen; and yet, if we attempted to give a list of English dishes into which the onion in some form enters, we should wellnigh exhaust the cookery book. Formerly the onion and garlic played an important part in pharmacopoeias, but at present the doctor has given them over to the cook; nevertheless, their medicinal value is known and acknowledged, and the old remedy for cold- onion broth — is still prepared in many household?, whilst the garlic has recently regained somewhat of its former reputation as a remedy for bronchial coughs and shortness of breath. M'Intosh's ' Book of the Garden ' tells us that ' Palladius, a Greek physician, recommends the onion to be sown with savory, in which curious opinion Pliny agrees, observing that onions prosper better when savory is sown with them.' ' It was,' says the writer, ' a current opinion in those days that certain plants had an antipathy to, or sympathy with, each other. However absurd such an idea may appear to us, we should take into consideration, that the opinions of the ancients may not have been faithfully handed down to us, or that their works may admit of a somewhat different construction. We find Phillips observes that all the plants which they recommend to be sown or planted together are ROOTS 227 of very opposite natures, and there may be more reason in the system pursued by the ancients than is generally allowed; for plants drawing the same juice from the earth must naturally weaken each other, whereas those requiring different nutriment may in some degree assist each other, each feeding upon juices that are prejudicial to plants of the other species. In this there is great truth.'