The new practical housekeeping

To judge whether clams and oysters are fresh insert a knife, and if the shell instantly closes firmly on the knife they are fresh. If it shuts slowly and faintly or not at all they are dying or dead ; or another test is that when fresh, the shell is firmly closed ; if open the oyster is dead and unfit for use. Oysters in the shell may be kept in a cool cellar, and occasionally sprinkled with salt water. The small-shelled variety have the finest flavor. For the freshness of canned oysters it is necessary to trust the dealer, but never buy cans the sides of which are swollen. In preparing them for cooking or for table, carefully remove all bits of shell. When cooking, some do not skim at all, others only slightly, claiming that a great deal of the rich flavor is lost by so doing ; and with good fresh oysters, and none other should be used, it is not necessary. Never salt oysters for soups or stews till just before removing them from the fire, or they will shrivel up and be hard, and adadd butter at same time as too much cooking makes butter oily. Roasting in shell best preserves natural flavor. Always serve immediately after cooking, no matter what method isused and do not cook long, never boiling more than a minute or two. This is also true of lobsters, etc., as long cooking toughens the meat. In handling oysters the wire oyster fork is nice as the short tines hold the oyster at the end of the fork, instead of allowing the tines to slip through and project beyond the oyster.r. As to nutritive qualities oysters rank much below meats, and it is even questioned whether they contain the phosphorus, or brain-food, which has been credited to them in company with the finny tribe in general. But, when properly cooked, they are easy of digestion, and very proper food for persons whose occupation is sedentary, and whose duties do not call for heavy muscular exertion. Even for invalids, they are nutritious and wholesome, when delicately prepared. For varieties, etc., of shell-fish see Marketing and to dress lobsters, terrapins, etc. for the different dishes given, see Cutting and Curing Meats. To open oysters, wash the shells and put on hot coals or upon top of a hot stove, or bake in a hot oven ; or open on one end with oyster knife or sharp iron, resting round part of oyster shell in left hand, using the knife with right, or open cans with can opener. Prom the middle of January to middle of March oysters are really in best condition and are also less expensive. Boiled Lobster. — Put in boiling water, with little salt, and boil till cooked through and shell turns red ; rub shell with sweet oi! after wiping to brighten color. Split body and tail through, crack claws and it is ready to serve, but must be cut up fine before eating. A dressing made of salt, mustard, oil, i cayenne pepper and vinegar, mixed ' with the yolk of an egg, is usually prepared for it. The white of a bardboiled egg may be minced fine and strewn over it. Boiled Crabs are prepared and served same, procuring the hard-shelled, and being careful to remove eyes, soft fins, BHELL-FI8H. 577