The new practical housekeeping

done the fish may be lifted out gently by the cloth and thus removed to the platter. Some simply spread a napkin on the plate under the fish, leaving the four corners outside the kettle, with which to lift it out ; or a towel or napkin may be put under the plate, the ends brought together and tied over the fish, and when done it may be lifted from the kettle, plate and all, by putting a fork under the knot, and to prevent all possibility of the fish breaking from its own weight, as it might when lifted from the plate in a cloth, unless done very carefully. All large fish (except salmon, which is put on in hot water to preserve its color) should be put on in cold water, but small ones in boiling water. Not the reason that fish cooks so Quickly that almost as soon as it touches the boiling water it is done, and if a large one were put on in boiling water the outside would be done and the inside raw. Large fish must be cooked very gently or the outside will break before the inner part is done, thus creating a waste and spoiling the handsome and appetizing appear- ance of the fish ; if necessary to add a little water while the fish is cooking, it should be poured in carefully at the side of the vessel ; but the less water used the better. Fish should never be allowed to boil hard, but the water should be brought to the boiling point as quickly as possible, when all scum must be taken off, and the fish kept simmering until done. Simmering is a gentle bubbling of the water. Should it begin to boil rapidly, draw it to back of range, or throw in a little cold water. In boiling fish, allow five to ten minutes to the pound, according to thickness, after putting into the water, and some will be done when the boiling point is reached. To test, pass a knife along a bone, and if done the fish will separate easily. Remove the moment it is done, or it will become "woolly" and insipid. Salmon and all dark-fleshed fish require longer boiling than the white-fleshed kinds. A whole mackerel needs about a quarter of an hour to do it properly ; herrings, and many other sorts of fish, scarcely half so long. The addition of salt and vinegar to water in which fish is boiled, seasons the fish, and at the same time hardens the water, so that it extracts less of the nutritious part of the fish. Some rub vinegar or lemon juice on the outside of the fish before putting it in the water. When only salt is added to the water in which fish is boiled it is, in French parlance, a l'eau de sel when sea-water is used the fish is said to be dressed à l'hollandaise; when the water is flavored with vinegar, spices and onions, the fish is served as au court bouillon, and simmered in a small quantity of water with a seasoning of savory herbs, it is a la bonne eau,