r vegetables. On the score of economy, too, fish should receive more attention from the housekeeper. The white kinds are least nutri- tious ; and the oily, such as salmon, eels, herrings, etc., most diffi- cult of digestion. Fish must be fresh, the fresher the better — those being most perfect which go straight from their native element into the hands of the cook — and they may be known to be perfectly fresh when the form is rigid and the eyes full and bright. If fish is kept on ice until used it will retain much of its freshness, but if not kept cool it will lose the delicate flavor, which nothing* can bring back. The season of the year has a most decided influence upon the qual- ity offish. In general, fish are in the best condition 'just before they spawn, but as soon as the spawning is over they are unfit for food, .being sometimes positively unwholesome. This circumstance is of 218 FISH. such importance that it has been made a subject of legislative action, regulating the times during which only certain fish may be caught. When fish are in season, the muscles are firm and they boil white and curdy ; when transparent and bluish, though sufficiently boiled, it is a sign that they are not in season or not fresh. For further hints on selecting fish see Marketing. Salmon, mackerel, herring and trout, and all fresh water fish, soon spoil and should be prepared for table as soon as possible after they are caught. Clean them on a dry table, not in a pan of water, using as little water as is compatible with cleanliness. Remove all scales (if hard to scrape oflf these may be loosened by plunging the fish into boiling water, but it must be taken out instantly or it will break the skin and spoil the fish), and scrape out entrails, every par- ticle of blood, and the white skin that lies along the backbone, being careful not to crush the fish more than is absolutely necessary in cleaning. When a large fish for boiling or baking is not to be stuffed, do not split open but draw it at th^ gills. Rinse thor- oughly in cold water, using only what is necessary for perfect clean- liness, drain, wipe dry, and place on ice until ready to cook. If to be cut up before cooking wash while whole, else much of the flavor will be lost. It is a common error to wash fish too much, as by doing so the flavor is also injured. If the fish is to be boiled, a lit- tle salt and vinegar should be put into the water, to give it firmness, after it is cleaned. Fresh cod-fish, whiting and haddock are none the worse for being a little salted and kept a day, but even better ; and if the weather is not very hot, they will be good for two days. To remove the earthy taste from fresh-water fish, sprinkle with salt, and let stand overnight, or at least a few hours, before cooking ; rinse off", wipe dry, and to completely absorb all the moisture, place in a folded napkin a short time. Fresh-water fish should never be soaked in water except when frozen, when they may be placed in ice-cold water to thaw, and then cooked immediately. Salt fish may be soaked overnight in cold water, changing water once or twice if very salt. To freshen fish, always place it skin-side up, so that the salt may have free course to the bottom of pan, where it naturally settles.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

r vegetables. On the score of economy, too, fish should receive more attention from the housekeeper. The white kinds are least nutritious ; and the oily, such as salmon, eels, herrings, etc., most difficult of digestion. Fish must be fresh, the fresher the better — those being most perfect which go straight from their native element into the hands of the cook — and they may be known to be perfectly fresh when the form is rigid and the eyes full and bright. If fish is kept on ice until used it will retain much of its freshness, but if not kept cool it will lose the delicate flavor, which nothing can bring back. The season of the year has a most decided influence upon the quality offish. In general, fish are in the best condition 'just before they spawn, but as soon as the spawning is over they are unfit for food, .being sometimes positively unwholesome. This circumstance is of such importance that it has been made a subject of legislative action, regulating the times during which only certain fish may be caught. When fish are in season, the muscles are firm and they boil white and curdy ; when transparent and bluish, though sufficiently boiled, it is a sign that they are not in season or not fresh. For further hints on selecting fish see Marketing. Salmon, mackerel, herring and trout, and all fresh water fish, soon spoil and should be prepared for table as soon as possible after they are caught. Clean them on a dry table, not in a pan of water, using as little water as is compatible with cleanliness. Remove all scales (if hard to scrape off these may be loosened by plunging the fish into boiling water, but it must be taken out instantly or it will break the skin and spoil the fish), and scrape out entrails, every particle of blood, and the white skin that lies along the backbone, being careful not to crush the fish more than is absolutely necessary in cleaning. When a large fish for boiling or baking is not to be stuffed, do not split open but drawn it at the gills Rinse thoroughly in cold water, using only what is necessary for perfect cleanliness, drain, wipe dry, and place on ice until ready to cook. If to be cut up before cooking wash while whole, else much of the flavor will be lost. It is a common error to wash fish too much, as by doing so the flavor is also injured. If the fish is to be boiled, a little salt and vinegar should be put into the water, to give it firmness, after it is cleaned. Fresh cod-fish, whiting and haddock are none the worse for being a little salted and kept a day, but even better ; and if the weather is not very hot, they will be good for two days. To remove the earthy taste from fresh-water fish, sprinkle with salt, and let stand overnight, or at least a few hours, before cooking; rinse off, wipe dry, and to completely absorb all the moisture, place in a folded napkin a short time. Fresh-water fish should never be soaked in water except when frozen, when they may be placed in ice-cold water to thaw, and then cooked immediately. Salt fish may be soaked overnight in cold water, changing water once or twice if very salt. To freshen fish, always place it skin-side up, so that the salt may have free course to the bottom of pan, where it naturally settles.

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