Cheese varies in quality and richness according to the quality of the materials of which it is composed, and is made of the "entire" milk — ^new milk, or milk with the cream unskimmed — of milk and cream, that is, the morning's milk with the cream of the evening before ; of new milk mixed with skimmed milk, and of skimmed milk only. Strong, means of a high flavor and odor but not neces- sarily sharp. Most new cheeses are relatively mild, and develop their characteristics, especially sharpness, with age. The Romans smoked their cheese to give it a sharp taste. The most celebrated varieties of the foreign cheeses are the following : The Parmesan,* a hard, high flavored article, slightly sharp, manufactured in Parma and Piacenza, Italy, which is supposed to get its flavor from the rich herbage of the pastures of the river Po, is made entirely of skimmed milk, and the best is that which has been kept three or four years, none being marketed under six months ; it is highly prized for grat- ing and cooking. The best English cheeses are the Stilton, Ches- hire and Cheddar, the first of which is finest and richest, made from cream and milk, and requires two years to ripen ; the Cheshire is made of entire milk, and the Cheddar, of mild flavor, is made of skimmed milk, like the Parmesan, which it much resembles ; the Dunlop is the only Scotch cheese well known in America, and has a peculiarly mild and rich taste ; the Gruyere is the best of the Swiss cheeses and has a fine flavor, but the Neufchatel, which comes in little rolls about an inch thick and three inches long, is perhaps best known in America and is cheap and delicious ; care must be taken when purchasing to see that it is not musty. The German Limburger, a very strong cheese, which is not considered fit for consumption until partly putrefied, is well known here. French cheeses are gen- erally for winter consumption, and come to us only from October to May. The best known here are the Brie, made of cream, and which comes in flat, round boxes weighing usually four pounds, and the Roquefort, a mixture of the milk of goats and sheep, made in same shape and size; the Dutchman's Head, or Edam, from Holland, prized principally for grating and cooking, is also sold here. The American cheeses are the Pineapple, which is double the price of CHEESE. 227 ordinary cheese, imitations of English Dairy, American Factory, and California cheese, which is only about half the weight and thickness of Eastern, and instead of being incased in a round wooden box like the Easteirn, is handled loose or naked in the wholesale market. None of the American cheeses are classed among strong cheeses. They are good all the year round. The foreign varieties, or equally as good American imitations, may all be had in the larger cities, while excellent, if not the best, American factory cheese is obtainable everywhere. Sage cheese is made by the addition of bruised sage leaves to the curd, which imparts a greenish color and a flavor liked by many. Cream cheese is not properly a cheese, although so called, but is simply cream dried sufficiently to be cut with a knife. Cheese from milk and potatoes is manufactured in Thuringia and Saxony.* Cheese may be had in small, round shapes, brickbats, the thin Cali- fornia cheeses, etc., as well as shaped in the ordinary large round hoop, or by the pound therefrom.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Cheese varies in quality and richness according to the quality of the materials of which it is composed, and is made of the "entire" milk — new milk, or milk with the cream unskimmed — of milk and cream, that is, the morning's milk with the cream of the evening before ; of new milk mixed with skimmed milk, and of skimmed milk only. Strong, means of a high flavor and odor but not necessarily sharp. Most new cheeses are relatively mild, and develop their characteristics, especially sharpness, with age. The Romans smoked their cheese to give it a sharp taste. The most celebrated varieties of the foreign cheeses are the following : The Parmesan,* a hard, high flavored article, slightly sharp, manufactured in Parma and Piacenza, Italy, which is supposed to get its flavor from the rich herbage of the pastures of the river Po, is made entirely of skimmed milk, and the best is that which has been kept three or four years, none being marketed under six months ; it is highly prized for grating and cooking. The best English cheeses are the Stilton, Cheshire and Cheddar, the first of which is finest and richest, made from cream and milk, and requires two years to ripen ; the Cheshire is made of entire milk, and the Cheddar, of mild flavor, is made of skimmed milk, like the Parmesan, which it much resembles ; the Dunlop is the only Scotch cheese well known in America, and has a peculiarly mild and rich taste ; the Gruyere is the best of the Swiss cheeses and has a fine flavor, but the Neufchatel, which comes in little rolls about an inch thick and three inches long, is perhaps best known in America and is cheap and delicious ; care must be taken when purchasing to see that it is not musty. The German Limburger, a very strong cheese, which is not considered fit for consumption until partly putrefied, is well known here. French cheeses are generally for winter consumption, and come to us only from October to May. The best known here are the Brie, made of cream, and which comes in flat, round boxes weighing usually four pounds, and the Roquefort, a mixture of the milk of goats and sheep, made in same shape and size; the Dutchman's Head, or Edam, from Holland, prized principally for grating and cooking, is also sold here. The American cheeses are the Pineapple, which is double the price of ordinary cheese, imitations of English Dairy, American Factory, and California cheese, which is only about half the weight and thickness of Eastern, and instead of being incased in a round wooden box like the Eastern, is handled loose or naked in the wholesale market. None of the American cheeses are classed among strong cheeses. They are good all the year round. The foreign varieties, or equally as good American imitations, may all be had in the larger cities, while excellent, if not the best, American factory cheese is obtainable everywhere. Sage cheese is made by the addition of bruised sage leaves to the curd, which imparts a greenish color and a flavor liked by many. Cream cheese is not properly a cheese, although so called, but is simply cream dried sufficiently to be cut with a knife. Cheese from milk and potatoes is manufactured in Thuringia and Saxony.* Cheese may be had in small, round shapes, brickbats, the thin California cheeses, etc., as well as shaped in the ordinary large round hoop, or by the pound therefrom.

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