The national course in home economics

When the strain is not great on a seam or when the material is too thick to conveniently make it on a sewing machine, or on a very expensive gown where handwork alone is desired, the permanent stitches are taken by hand. Those most frequently used are the running stitch, the back stitch, and the half-back stitch. The running stitch is made by taking stitches of equal length, as in even basting, but very much shorter than even basting stitches. This stitch is used where practically no strength is needed. The back stitch, which is used to take the place of machine stitching, is made by taking a stitch backward on the upper side and one twice as long forward on the under side. Half back stitching is made the same as back stitching, except that the back stitch on the upper side of the material is taken only half way back to the last stitch instead of all the way. It is used where there is not as much strain on the seam as there is in the back stitch. Raw edges of a seam that ravels easily are over-cast. Over-casting is a slanting stitch taken over the edge ; the needle should point to the left, and the threads should not be drawn very tight. The stitches should be less than a fourth of an inch long and the same distance apart. All edges of material should be trimmed smooth before over-casting. BACK STITCH i'X^>VS'y/i''>t'>X'JlKK>J ^ffVVV^,»^" V^ WVrV-^^" ' ^ ^'- T*"=^»w ^> ^v.. HALF BACK STITCH OVER-CASTING vo. W^^^^^MMMWMtM^^^^MW^M^M OVER-HANDING CATCH STITCHING .^.V'^^^p^ ^ Oz'cr-handing is used to join two folded or selvedge edges. The stitches are very small and are taken over the edges, which have been basted evenly together. Catch stitching is used to finish seams or hold down seam edges. It is especially preferred to finish seams on flannel garments because it makes a smoother, less bulky seam than can be made otherwise. Leave the knot on the underneath of the material, on the side nearest you. Slant the thread across to opposite side and take a short stitch, including a few threads of material, to the right, having the needle point away from the thread. Then cross back, taking a similar stitch. Feather stitching is used to decorate undergarments, or when worked into a design it is often used on dainty waists and infants' dresses. Make the knot on under side of cloth ; hold the thread down in a straight line, then insert the needle a little to the left of this line and take a short, slanting stitch toward the line. Hold the thread down with the thumb while drawing the needle out over it. The second stitch is taken on the opposite side of the line, also slanting toward the line; the needle is inserted for the second stitch at the line level with the bottom of the first stitch. This may be varied by taking two or three stitches on the left before crossing to the right, and taking the same number there, making a double or treble feather stitch. FEATHER STITCHING ^^^^^^^^^^^^^f^mm^^^^m^^^ Fagot stitching is also ornamental stitching. It is used in joining pieces of ribbon or cloth. It is done by crossing from left to right, like feather stitching, except that the needle is inserted under the edge of the ribbon or fold, and brought out on top, the needle pointing from the center instead of pointing toward it. FAGOT STITCHING