Bend wires to fit head. Then fasten to head-size wire,
equal distances apart. Bring head-size wire around outside
of other wires (Fig. 1).
Make two circles of wires, each smaller than head-size
one, and fasten them to semi-circle, inside of it. These are
brace wires to give strength to frame. Next bend ends of
wires out flat from head-size, turning them up if rolling brim is desired
(Fig. 2). Measure a wire around the outer edge of these ends and make
a circle. Bend the ends over the circle and fasten them to it, equal dis-
tances apart.
FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
Make one or two smaller circles and fasten them to wires, between
edge and* head-size, or brim. These are brace wires (Fig. 3).
A wire frame should be covered with net or chififon before final
covering is sewed on.
LESSON IV
COVERING AND LINING BUCKRAM FRAMES
Buckram frames may be covered with velvet, silk, straw, or material
to match a costume.
The buckram frame should be bound around the outer edge of the
brim with a strip of crinoline or muslin. The binding should be cut on
the bias and be about an inch and a half wide. Fold it in two lengthwise,
and, placing this fold over the edge of the brim, stretch it tight around the
hat. Mark where the ends meet and join. With a running stitch fasten
the edges to the brim. This is used to sew the cover of the hat to.
To cover frame plain. Cut two pieces of material with which hat is
to be covered, from the pattern by which buckram was cut, leaving a half
inch turning all around. The center of front and back of pattern should
be placed on bias of cloth and marked by notches.
If brim of hat is not flat, a new pattern will have to be made by fit-
MILLINERY IN THE HOME
23
FIG. 1
ting a piece of paper to the buckram and folding in the necessary plaits.
Then cut material from this pattern. Often the shape of this patterri
necessitates the making of a seam in material to insure a fit.
Cut place for head-size, allowing an inch within head line, which is
to be cut into as far as head line to turn up against crown.
Place one piece of material on under side of frame, turning the
edges over the edge of brim and pinning them to the binding on top. Sew
material to binding, using overhand stitches
(Fig. i). Then sew slashed edge of head-
size up inside the sides of crown, stretch-
ing the material smooth over the frame.
Next slip the top piece over the crown,
and pin or baste it down smooth to top of
brim. Turn in the half -inch edge all around
and slip-stitch it to facing.
Cover top of crown by cutting a circle
of material a half inch larger than top of
crown. Fasten edges down over top sides
of crown, making small plaits in material and sewing them flat to buckram.
Last, cut a strip of goods on bias of material, just long enough so that
when the ends are fastened together it will fit snugly around the sides of
the crown. It should be one inch wider than the height of the crown.
Sew ends together by running a plain seam on the wrong side of material.
Press seam open. Turn in bottom edge a half inch and slip it over sides
of crown. Then turn in top edge, so that it just comes to top of crown.
The hat is then ready to be lined and trimmed.
Page 13
Presented as published in 1917. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Bend wires to fit head. Then fasten to head-size wire, equal distances apart. Bring head-size wire around outside of other wires (Fig. 1).
Make two circles of wires, each smaller than head-size one, and fasten them to semi-circle, inside of it. These are brace wires to give strength to frame. Next bend ends of wires out flat from head-size, turning them up if rolling brim is desired (Fig. 2). Measure a wire around the outer edge of these ends and make a circle. Bend the ends over the circle and fasten them to it, equal distances apart.
FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
Make one or two smaller circles and fasten them to wires, between edge and* head-size, or brim. These are brace wires (Fig. 3).
A wire frame should be covered with net or chiffon before final
covering is sewed on.
COVERING AND LINING BUCKRAM FRAMES
Buckram frames may be covered with velvet, silk, straw, or material to match a costume.
The buckram frame should be bound around the outer edge of the brim with a strip of crinoline or muslin. The binding should be cut on the bias and be about an inch and a half wide. Fold it in two lengthwise, and, placing this fold over the edge of the brim, stretch it tight around the hat. Mark where the ends meet and join. With a running stitch fasten the edges to the brim. This is used to sew the cover of the hat to.
To cover frame plain. Cut two pieces of material with which hat is to be covered, from the pattern by which buckram was cut, leaving a half inch turning all around. The center of front and back of pattern should be placed on bias of cloth and marked by notches.
If brim of hat is not flat, a new pattern will have to be made by fit-
FIG. 1
ting a piece of paper to the buckram and folding in the necessary plaits. Then cut material from this pattern. Often the shape of this patterri necessitates the making of a seam in material to insure a fit.
Cut place for head-size, allowing an inch within head line, which is to be cut into as far as head line to turn up against crown.
Place one piece of material on under side of frame, turning the edges over the edge of brim and pinning them to the binding on top. Sew
material to binding, using overhand stitches (Fig. i). Then sew slashed edge of headsize up inside the sides of crown, stretching the material smooth over the frame.
Next slip the top piece over the crown, and pin or baste it down smooth to top of brim. Turn in the half -inch edge all around and slip-stitch it to facing.
Cover top of crown by cutting a circle of material a half inch larger than top of crown. Fasten edges down over top sides of crown, making small plaits in material and sewing them flat to buckram. Last, cut a strip of goods on bias of material, just long enough so that when the ends are fastened together it will fit snugly around the sides of the crown. It should be one inch wider than the height of the crown. Sew ends together by running a plain seam on the wrong side of material. Press seam open. Turn in bottom edge a half inch and slip it over sides of crown. Then turn in top edge, so that it just comes to top of crown. The hat is then ready to be lined and trimmed.