Before buying a pattern, have your measurements taken carefully.
Bust measure should be taken loosely over fullest part of bust, up to a
raise of about two inches in the center of back. Hip measure should be
taken nine inches below waist line. Waist measure should be taken snugly
at normal waist line. These are the only measurements necessary for
buying a pattern.
After the pattern is purchased, read the directions carefully before
laying it on material and cutting. Usually only one half of a pattern is
given, so that all pieces are to be cut doubled.
If your figure is out of proportion the pattern may be
altered to fit it. This should be done before material is cut.
(Fig. 4). For instance, if you are shorter waisted than the^
pattern, do not cut out by pattern and try to remedy the mate-
rial afterwards. Alter the pattern first. » Know your
measurement from the center of the collar seam in the back
to the center of the waist line in the back; also from close
underarm to waist line and from neck seam in center front
to waist line there. Compare with the measurements of
pattern. Take a plait in pattern the necessary width, which
is the number of inches difiference in your measurements
and those of the pattern, about two inches above the waist
line. Even ofif seams of pattern after plaits are laid.
For a longer waisted person the measurements should
be taken the same as before, and the pattern cut apart at
the place where the plait was taken before (Fig. 5). The
necessary addition in length is made by separating the cut
pieces of the pattern the required number of inches.
Alter skirts in the same manner, making necessary
changes five inches below the hip line.
Sleeves are altered in two places, a few inches above
and a few inches below the elbow line (Fig. 3).
To increase the waist size, cut darts in pattern along
the waist line and spread open the required amount. To
decrease the waist size, take small plaits in pattern at this
place.
After the pattern has been altered to fit, it is well to
make a pattern from lining material,to use for further reference.
FIG. 1
FIG. 2
18
HOME DRESSMAKING
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
FIG. 5
When making a gored skirt, the order in which the work is done
is as follows:
(i) Take measurements.
(2) iVlter pattern.
(3) Place pattern to best advantage on cloth.
(4) Cut material.
(5) Remove and put away pattern.
(6) Pin and baste seams.
(7) Fit on you.
(8) Alter, if necessary.
(9) Stitch.
(10) Press seams.
(11) Finish seams and placket.
(12) Make and attach waist band.
(13) Mark length of skirt and finish hem.
(14) Sew on fastenings and loops to hang by.
(15) Press.
The same directions for order in which shirtwaist should be made:.
(I
(2
(3
(4
(5
(6
(7
(8
(9
(10
(II
Take measurements.
Alter pattern.
Place on material and cut.
Make sleeves, cuffs, and collar band.
Make box plait on right side of front and hem on other.
Baste shoulder and underarm seams.
Pin neck band and mark for seams.
Fit sleeves and mark for seams.
Sew sleeves in.
Arrange fullness around waist on tape.
Make buttonholes and sew on buttons.
Millinery in the Home
LESSON I
SELECTION OF SHAPE AND MATERIALS
IN these few lessons on millinery a simple outline is made which should
be a help to the woman who does her own hat-making at home.
Page 10
Presented as published in 1917. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Before buying a pattern, have your measurements taken carefully. Bust measure should be taken loosely over fullest part of bust, up to a raise of about two inches in the center of back. Hip measure should be taken nine inches below waist line. Waist measure should be taken snugly at normal waist line. These are the only measurements necessary for buying a pattern.
After the pattern is purchased, read the directions carefully before laying it on material and cutting. Usually only one half of a pattern is given, so that all pieces are to be cut doubled.
If your figure is out of proportion the pattern may be altered to fit it. This should be done before material is cut. (Fig. 4). For instance, if you are shorter waisted than the pattern, do not cut out by pattern and try to remedy the material afterwards. Alter the pattern first. » Know your measurement from the center of the collar seam in the back to the center of the waist line in the back; also from close underarm to waist line and from neck seam in center front to waist line there. Compare with the measurements of pattern. Take a plait in pattern the necessary width, which is the number of inches difference in your measurements and those of the pattern, about two inches above the waist line. Even off seams of pattern after plaits are laid.
For a longer waisted person the measurements should be taken the same as before, and the pattern cut apart at the place where the plait was taken before (Fig. 5). The necessary addition in length is made by separating the cut pieces of the pattern the required number of inches.
Alter skirts in the same manner, making necessary changes five inches below the hip line.
Sleeves are altered in two places, a few inches above and a few inches below the elbow line (Fig. 3).
To increase the waist size, cut darts in pattern along the waist line and spread open the required amount. To decrease the waist size, take small plaits in pattern at this place.
After the pattern has been altered to fit, it is well to make a pattern from lining material,to use for further reference.
FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
FIG. 5
When making a gored skirt, the order in which the work is done is as follows:
(i) Take measurements.
(2) Alter pattern.
(3) Place pattern to best advantage on cloth.
(4) Cut material.
(5) Remove and put away pattern.
(6) Pin and baste seams.
(7) Fit on you.
(8) Alter, if necessary.
(9) Stitch.
(10) Press seams.
(11) Finish seams and placket.
(12) Make and attach waist band.
(13) Mark length of skirt and finish hem.
(14) Sew on fastenings and loops to hang by.
(15) Press.
The same directions for order in which shirtwaist should be made:.
(I
(2 (3 (4
(5
(6 (7 (8
(9 (10
(II
Take measurements.
Alter pattern.
Place on material and cut.
Make sleeves, cuffs, and collar band.
Make box plait on right side of front and hem on other.
Baste shoulder and underarm seams.
Pin neck band and mark for seams.
Fit sleeves and mark for seams.
Sew sleeves in.
Arrange fullness around waist on tape.
Make buttonholes and sew on buttons.
Millinery in the Home
SELECTION OF SHAPE AND MATERIALS
IN these few lessons on millinery a simple outline is made which should be a help to the woman who does her own hat-making at home.