After juice has been reamed from oranges or lemons, tear out the membranes. Soak over night in water salted with i tablespoon of salt to the quart. Drop into fresh water and drain. With a spoon scrape off white inside, and cut with scissors into narrow strips. Mix yi cup of water with i cup sugar✪ Candied Orange and Lemon Peels, add the peel and cook until the strips look clear. Drain, lay on a plate to cool, then roll in granulated sugar, letting as much sugar as possible stick to them. When dry pack away in jars or tin boxes lined with paper. If they become too dry after a time, warm them in the oven. HANDY HINTS 1 69 CANDIED GRAPEFRUIT PEEL Grapefruit peel is so bitter that it should be parboiled for 15 minutes after being taken from the salt water; and some people parboil, drain, parboil a second time and drain, before cooking with sugar. After parboiling follow the recipe for Candied Orange and Lemon Peels. There's a whole book about using citrus peels, if you're interested. Mrs. Florence Gilson Barton wrote and published it in San Bernar- dino, California, in 1928. It's called ne California Orange Cook Book, Complete and Explicit Directions for the Making of Candied and Glace Fruits, Jellies, Marmalades; Orange and Grapefruit Rinds in Decorative Forms and Preserves. And while you're at it, experi- ment with the rinds of Persian limes and kumquats. XXIII. The Pick of the Pushcart We've made our very best vegetable and fruit buys, over a period of thirty years, off pushcarts in the poorest sections of cities all over the world, not counting the unbeatable bargains on the tropical fruit wharves of Bahia and the raspberries and melons sold in season on every Moscow street corner and in the unbelievably bounteous Gastronomes throughout the Soviet. The reason for pushcart plenty is obvious, especially in a huge city like New York. In this broad land some fruit is always in season, and the pick of all crops comes to this highest priced market; so, since the best of it ripens en route, every day something or other arrives in the commission merchant's hands that's prime but risky for big dealers to hold for a gamble. He's either got to sell it out at once for what he can get, or throw it away. Shipments with slight imperfections also can't be resold to Park Avenue Bon Voyage basket fillers, so they're picked up by the haggard, hoarse street-hawkers who haunt Washington Market at dawn, with only ten or twenty dollars to invest in quick merchandise to load up pushcarts or a bag-of-bones horse and wagon they rent for from 50^ to ^3.00 a day. Without capital they can't hold out for prices as the chain stores do, so they yell and sell in Paddy's market, east side marts and on the streets, and if you know your artichokes, fresh figs, pomegranates or honeydews, the very best fruit value you can get is — the pick of the pushcart. The one sure quality test in picking out any kind of fruit is its 170 THE PICK OF THE PUSHCART I7I

AI-modernized reading of the original text

After juice has been reamed from oranges or lemons, tear out the membranes. Soak over night in water salted with i tablespoon of salt to the quart. Drop into fresh water and drain. With a spoon scrape off white inside, and cut with scissors into narrow strips. Mix yi cup of water with i cup sugar, add the peel and cook until the strips look clear. Drain, lay on a plate to cool, then roll in granulated sugar, letting as much sugar as possible stick to them. When dry pack away in jars or tin boxes lined with paper. If they become too dry after a time, warm them in the oven. CANDIED GRAPEFRUIT PEEL Grapefruit peel is so bitter that it should be parboiled for 15 minutes after being taken from the salt water; and some people parboil, drain, parboil a second time and drain, before cooking with sugar. After parboiling follow the recipe for Candied Orange and Lemon Peels. There's a whole book about using citrus peels, if you're interested. Mrs. Florence Gilson Barton wrote and published it in San Bernardino, California, in 1928. It's called The California Orange Cook Book, Complete and Explicit Directions for the Making of Candied and Glace Fruits, Jellies, Marmalades; Orange and Grapefruit Rinds in Decorative Forms and Preserves. And while you're at it, experiment with the rinds of Persian limes and kumquats. XXIII. The Pick of the Pushcart We've made our very best vegetable and fruit buys, over a period of thirty years, off pushcarts in the poorest sections of cities all over the world, not counting the unbeatable bargains on the tropical fruit wharves of Bahia and the raspberries and melons sold in season on every Moscow street corner and in the unbelievably bounteous Gastronomes throughout the Soviet. The reason for pushcart plenty is obvious, especially in a huge city like New York. In this broad land some fruit is always in season, and the pick of all crops comes to this highest priced market; so, since the best of it ripens en route, every day something or other arrives in the commission merchant's hands that's prime but risky for big dealers to hold for a gamble. He's either got to sell it out at once for what he can get, or throw it away. Shipments with slight imperfections also can't be resold to Park Avenue Bon Voyage basket fillers, so they're picked up by the haggard, hoarse street-hawkers who haunt Washington Market at dawn, with only ten or twenty dollars to invest in quick merchandise to load up pushcarts or a bag-of-bones horse and wagon they rent for from 50^ to ^3.00 a day. Without capital they can't hold out for prices as the chain stores do, so they yell and sell in Paddy's market, east side marts and on the streets, and if you know your artichokes, fresh figs, pomegranates or honeydews, the very best fruit value you can get is — the pick of the pushcart. The one sure quality test in picking out any kind of fruit is its THE PICK OF THE PUSHCART I7I

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