Garlic. The fresh crop, or "new" garlic, is by far the richest in
flavor. In Europe, the day that new garlic comes in is often cele-
brated by drinking, feasting, and dancing in the streets. As with
onions, when garlic gets old it begins to sprout and lose its firmness
and flavor, from too much preoccupation with reproducing itself.
Greens. There are all sorts of greens the year around, their va-
riety depending on the locality: beet tops, broccoli, chard, chicory,
collards, cress, dandelions, endive, escarole, kale, mustard, sorrel
(sour grass), spinach, turnip tops, etc. These are judged by crisp-
ness, strong color and general vitality.
Kale. This cheapest of greens is also the coarsest. Its quality is
judged just the same as the others — it must be clean, fresh and
dark bluish-green in color.
Kohlrabi. This delicate cabbage whose roots grow above ground
shouldn't be neglected — it's inexpensive and makes a fine dish
when firm, young and tender. Its youth can be told by the velvety
feel of its skin.
Lettuce. The two head lettuces are named after Boston and New
York, the Boston kind is also called ** butter-head" and has
smoother, greener leaves than the New York ''crisp-head," which
is larger, firmer and crisper, and sometimes wrongly called "Ice-
berg." The third kind is leaf or garden lettuce which doesn't head, is
more delicate and wilts quickly, and the fourth is romaine or cos
lettuce, the head being as long and cylindrical as a cucumber, with
tougher leaves and stronger flavor. All lettuce has to be fresh, firm
and lively in color. Beware of old lettuce in which the seed stalk
RABBIT FOOD I 49
has begun to separate the leaves at the base. It's bitter. You can
feel the top of the hard seed core by gently pressing the top and
sides of any kind of lettuce.
Mushrooms. "Button" mushrooms sell at a higher price than
those with their umbrellas open, but are not necessarily as good a
buy. We like mature mushrooms with well-developed spores that
make a tastier sauce.
Okra. Pods must be young, tender and as full of snap as snap
beans.
Onions. Dry onions come in many colors: white, yellow, brown,
red and purple, and in all degrees of flavor. They must be plump,
shapely, hard and bright-skinned. Unshapely onions may have be-
gun to split or sprout and are therefore wasteful and not as tasty.
There are the big Bermudas that taste as sweet as apples; Spanish
or Valencia, and American kinds that are smaller but much stronger.
Green Onion Family. Leeks, shallots, chives, scallions and
Spring onions must all be green to the top and bursting with juice.
The bulb onion from seed is better in taste and value than any
kind of sprouts or scallions. Chives bought growing in a pot, for a
dime or so, are handy fresh garnishing to keep in the kitchen.
Parsley. The flat-leafed Italian kind is fullest of flavor; the
curled leaf may be prettier, but it's not so tasty. But a third kind
called Hamburg is the best buy because it has a big root that's
fine in soups and as flavorsome as celery root, although it belongs
to the carrot family. The tops serve as any other parsley for gar-
nishing. Color and crispness is the test. Yellow, wilted parsley is a
bad buy.
Page 81
Presented as published in 1938. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Garlic. The fresh crop, or "new" garlic, is by far the richest in flavor. In Europe, the day that new garlic comes in is often celebrated by drinking, feasting, and dancing in the streets. As with onions, when garlic gets old it begins to sprout and lose its firmness and flavor, from too much preoccupation with reproducing itself.
Greens. There are all sorts of greens the year around, their variety depending on the locality: beet tops, broccoli, chard, chicory, collards, cress, dandelions, endive, escarole, kale, mustard, sorrel (sour grass), spinach, turnip tops, etc. These are judged by crispness, strong color and general vitality.
Kale. This cheapest of greens is also the coarsest. Its quality is judged just the same as the others — it must be clean, fresh and dark bluish-green in color.
Kohlrabi. This delicate cabbage whose roots grow above ground shouldn't be neglected — it's inexpensive and makes a fine dish when firm, young and tender. Its youth can be told by the velvety feel of its skin.
Lettuce. The two head lettuces are named after Boston and New York, the Boston kind is also called "butter-head" and has smoother, greener leaves than the New York ''crisp-head," which is larger, firmer and crisper, and sometimes wrongly called "Iceberg." The third kind is leaf or garden lettuce which doesn't head, is more delicate and wilts quickly, and the fourth is romaine or cos lettuce, the head being as long and cylindrical as a cucumber, with tougher leaves and stronger flavor. All lettuce has to be fresh, firm and lively in color. Beware of old lettuce in which the seed stalk
has begun to separate the leaves at the base. It's bitter. You can feel the top of the hard seed core by gently pressing the top and sides of any kind of lettuce.
Mushrooms. "Button" mushrooms sell at a higher price than those with their umbrellas open, but are not necessarily as good a buy. We like mature mushrooms with well-developed spores that make a tastier sauce.
Okra. Pods must be young, tender and as full of snap as snap beans.
Onions. Dry onions come in many colors: white, yellow, brown, red and purple, and in all degrees of flavor. They must be plump, shapely, hard and bright-skinned. Unshapely onions may have begun to split or sprout and are therefore wasteful and not as tasty. There are the big Bermudas that taste as sweet as apples; Spanish or Valencia, and American kinds that are smaller but much stronger.
Green Onion Family. Leeks, shallots, chives, scallions and Spring onions must all be green to the top and bursting with juice. The bulb onion from seed is better in taste and value than any kind of sprouts or scallions. Chives bought growing in a pot, for a dime or so, are handy fresh garnishing to keep in the kitchen.
Parsley. The flat-leafed Italian kind is fullest of flavor; the curled leaf may be prettier, but it's not so tasty. But a third kind called Hamburg is the best buy because it has a big root that's fine in soups and as flavorsome as celery root, although it belongs to the carrot family. The tops serve as any other parsley for garnishing. Color and crispness is the test. Yellow, wilted parsley is a bad buy.