Most for your money cookbook

Scrape the best bit of round or tenderloin you can get, to free it from all sinew. Don't chop it or run it through a grinder, but scrape it carefully with the point of a tablespoon. Season well with salt and pepper and add a squeeze of lemon if you like. Spread thickly on buttered rye and pile the minced onion and parsley in little heaps hard by, for mixing into the meat according to taste or taking alternate bites of these indispensable relishes. This red-faced, open-faced, raw meat sandwich is made attractive by cross-hatching the top with the back of a knife blade or otherwise dappling it into a decorative pattern, as a butler would fix up a pat of butter fancy enough for a DuPont, or a stableboy would curry the flanks of Mrs. Astor's horse. A pleasing addition is an egg yolk, either stirred into the meat to make it juicier, or perched whole on top of it, like a jockey, for the eater to mix in to suit himself. Since all professional cooks at some time or another sicken at the sight of any cooked dish, just as candy-makers choke on candy. Cannibal Sandwiches are a godsend to them. They'll turn down SANDWICHES THAT SATISFY I33 fancy food frills a la financiere and go for the uncooked Hamburgers. For that's exactly what these are; and there's nothing simpler or easier to digest in the way of meat. HEARTH-BREAD SPREADS The best white sandwich bread we know is the wholesome, well-knit Italian loaf, sold cheaper than ordinary cottony white bread in any "Little Italy." It's the type known as "hearth" bread, very solid and crusty, has more weight to it, is better baked and guaranteed to stick to your ribs. For a pleasant change butter it with olive oil, or the olive oil from a can of sardines, anchovies or antipasto, but make sure it's not cottonseed oil. And for many people chicken fat is much finer than the best butter you can buy. The oil from honestly made peanut butter or plain peanut oil also makes a snappy spread. A sandwich that's a well-balanced meal in itself is: CHEESE AND GARLIC Buy some good old Wisconsin cheese. It costs 20% more than the green, rubbery store cheese, but then, it's lost at least that much water in standing several years, so you're getting probably more cheese for your money and the flavor, of course, is incomparable. Peel all the cloves of three or four heads of good garlic, the younger and fresher the better, and fry them in a very little olive oil until they're soft and gelatinous. Push them to one side of the pan to keep warm while you melt a couple of good slices of your old cheese in the pan and when it's bubbling and creamy pour everything, garlic, cheese and oil over a big thick slab of hearth bread. Butter, of course, is unnecessary with this rich miniature meal. POOR BOY SANDWICH In spite of its patronizing name this is a good handout. It's a New Orleans specialty that has now spread to barbecue stands all over the South. Just get yourself a long, narrow "flute" of French bread, slice it lengthwise and fill it with an assortment of three or four different things, in sections that can be cut off separately, a hot dog with sauerkraut fills one-third, a fried egg the next and