Most for your money cookbook

In most foreign countries pigs' ears and tails are highly esteemed, but they've never been popular in America, except down South where white landowners threw them to their slaves, who, from necessity, learned to make delicious dishes out of things their white masters considered offal. And this mistake exists down to this day when slaughter houses market everything but the chops and tenderloin for almost anything they'll bring. But certain butchers specialize in such choice tidbits as hogs' jowls, chitterlings, and harslet, the pluck of the animal which includes heart, lungs and liver. Ten cents a pound is the price, just now, but let some smart promoter get to work on them and they'll go skyrocketing, for from this raw material at which the snooty turn up their noses, the tastiest dishes are made. It's all a matter of education, as is easily seen in the fact that calf's liver and sweetbreads not so many years ago were given away or sold for next to nothing, until vitamin hunters brought calf's liver up to 80¢ a pound and doctors prescribed sweetbreads to a growing class of millionaire gourmets who thought it was good for their own giblets, brains, or something. So don't stop at anything edible, and here are some appetizing ways to use the unpopular parts of a pig. HOGS' JOWLS AND TURNIP GREENS HOGS JOWLS TURNIP GREENS VINEGAR This recipe is played in halves, like a football game. Boil the jowls half an hour in salted water, then put the greens in and boil everything together for the second half. Salt and pepper at the finish, pep up the greens with vinegar or lemon juice and add a little butter if you like. This dish that came out of the poverty of the Negroes in slave days was quickly appropriated by the whites, so when you see a testimonial to Southern cooking today by some of the great native eaters like Irvin S. Cobb, you'll usually find them rooting for hogs' jowls and turnip greens or some other humble dish such as pigs' ears boiled with mustard greens, according to recipes worked out in plantation days when the master got the ham and tenderloin and the slave got the squeal. There are dozens of variations that may be rung on this simple recipe and all of them excellent. Here are some: Pig's Snoot and Collards Hog Maws, Southern Style Pig Tails and Poke Greens, Cabbage or Brussels Sprouts Salt Pork and Beet Greens Neck Bones and Virginia Collards Pigs' Feet and Alabama Mustard Greens Such specialties are easiest to find in the Negro sections of big cities, like New York's Harlem, which, in spite of its poverty, enjoys an exceptional cuisine that would make a Park Avenuer's taste buds come to full bloom if he ever got the chance to taste it: spareribs and turnip tops for example, every part of the pig with all kinds of greens, from poke salad to sorrel, which is plain sour grass to us but an exhilarating herb to all Frenchmen. In fact, about the only Negro dish that some folks can't go, is chitterlings, but when they're young and tender as "newmown spaghetti " they're tops, either plain or with turnip tops. Any chitterling fan will walk a mile for them.