The French standby for a cheap meat dish is a whole or half calf s head with the brains taken out, but the cheeks not cut off. This requires long, slow cooking, which costs money when you're buying from a gas or electric company. So the cheeks alone, with- out any bone or waste, make a dish that's quicker to cook and as tender as spring chicken, which it resembles in taste. Because calves' cheeks are almost unknown outside of foreign butcher shops they sell for about 25 f^ a pound and are even a better buy than beef, pig's or lamb's liver. Since they're all meat, this is a very economical food and one that meets with universal approval. If there is any objection to garlic it may be cut in slices and picked out just before serving; then its presence will not be sus- pected, and the dish will be subtly improved by its flavor. For it's well known among canny cooks that people who think they can't stand the taste of garlic relish its flavor if they happen to eat a garlic-seasoned roast or stew with their eyes shut. And, by the way, in handling cut garlic all odor can instantly be washed off the fingers by holding them for a moment under the cold water tap. BUBBLE AND SQUEAK Lightly fry in butter any cold meat cut in thin slices and keep it warm while you heat up any cold cooked vegetables such as cabbage, potatoes, onions and turnip-tops chopped together and seasoned with Mike and Ike, the salt and pepper shaker twins. When vegetables are ready put meat on a hot platter, surround it with the vegetables and sluice with gravy, if there is any✪ Bubble and Squeak. This standby of England started in the good old days when most poor families had a joint of beef every Sunday, with some always left over until the middle of the week. It's a quick way of using [. leftovers and is about the same as our hash, except the meat isn't 70 MOST-FOR-YOUR-MONEY COOK BOOK chopped and it*s cooked separately. The picturesque name comes from the bubbling of the margarine and the squeaking of the cab- bage whilst cooking, for cabbage is always a prime ingredient. The dish is also aifectionately known as Bubblum Squeak. MUGWUMP IN A HOLE I POUND BEEF OR VEAL I EGG SALT AND PEPPER I CUP MILK I CUP FLOUR✪ Mugwump in a Hole The meat may be either fresh, or underdone leftover, and should contain some fat. Cut it into i/^-inch chunks, and season; lay in bottom of a buttered baking dish. Beat egg light, mix with milk and I teaspoon of salt. Slowly stir into flour, and beat thoroughly. Pour over meat and bake i hour. Down South a mugwump is a tadpole when he has grown half way into a frog, but is neither one nor the other. Before the Dem- ocratic and Republican parties became exactly alike, a voter who was loyal to neither but switched when he pleased was derisively called a mugwump, or in-between tadpole, by his confreres in both parties. The epithet carries no sting now, when one of our United States senators can run on both tickets at the same time for nom- ination as Mayor of New York City. There were never any asper- sions on this dish, however, which is a variation of the British "Toad in a Hole," and by any name it*s both economical and good. The baking dish may be carried to the table just as it comes out of the oven, or the mugwumps may be taken out of their holes and laid on a hot platter, with the holes set around them as a garnish.

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The French standby for a cheap meat dish is a whole or half calf s head with the brains taken out, but the cheeks not cut off. This requires long, slow cooking, which costs money when you're buying from a gas or electric company. So the cheeks alone, without any bone or waste, make a dish that's quicker to cook and as tender as spring chicken, which it resembles in taste. Because calves' cheeks are almost unknown outside of foreign butcher shops they sell for about 25 f^ a pound and are even a better buy than beef, pig's or lamb's liver. Since they're all meat, this is a very economical food and one that meets with universal approval. If there is any objection to garlic it may be cut in slices and picked out just before serving; then its presence will not be suspected, and the dish will be subtly improved by its flavor. For it's well known among canny cooks that people who think they can't stand the taste of garlic relish its flavor if they happen to eat a garlic-seasoned roast or stew with their eyes shut. And, by the way, in handling cut garlic all odor can instantly be washed off the fingers by holding them for a moment under the cold water tap. BUBBLE AND SQUEAK Lightly fry in butter any cold meat cut in thin slices and keep it warm while you heat up any cold cooked vegetables such as cabbage, potatoes, onions and turnip-tops chopped together and seasoned with Mike and Ike, the salt and pepper shaker twins. When vegetables are ready put meat on a hot platter, surround it with the vegetables and sluice with gravy, if there is any. This standby of England started in the good old days when most poor families had a joint of beef every Sunday, with some always left over until the middle of the week. It's a quick way of using [. leftovers and is about the same as our hash, except the meat isn't chopped and it's cooked separately. The picturesque name comes from the bubbling of the margarine and the squeaking of the cabbage whilst cooking, for cabbage is always a prime ingredient. The dish is also affectionately known as Bubblum Squeak. MUGWUMP IN A HOLE I POUND BEEF OR VEAL I EGG SALT AND PEPPER I CUP MILK I CUP FLOUR The meat may be either fresh, or underdone leftover, and should contain some fat. Cut it into i/^-inch chunks, and season; lay in bottom of a buttered baking dish. Beat egg light, mix with milk and I teaspoon of salt. Slowly stir into flour, and beat thoroughly. Pour over meat and bake i hour. Down South a mugwump is a tadpole when he has grown half way into a frog, but is neither one nor the other. Before the Democratic and Republican parties became exactly alike, a voter who was loyal to neither but switched when he pleased was derisively called a mugwump, or in-between tadpole, by his confreres in both parties. The epithet carries no sting now, when one of our United States senators can run on both tickets at the same time for nomination as Mayor of New York City. There were never any aspersions on this dish, however, which is a variation of the British "Toad in a Hole," and by any name it's both economical and good. The baking dish may be carried to the table just as it comes out of the oven, or the mugwumps may be taken out of their holes and laid on a hot platter, with the holes set around them as a garnish.

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