Butter is such a universal spread we seldom think of changing to
cream cheese, smearkase, mayonnaise and other equally good
lubricators for bread. But in Europe butter is only one of the
spreads and plain juicy black or rye bread is just as often covered
with chicken fat, olive oil, even plain mustard, to make an appetiz-
ing snack with beer and other drinks. Such things as catsup, chili
sauce, pickled horseradish and garlic roasted soft make a slice of
honest, well-knit bread, white or black, into a miniature meal. In
fact, this last is the standard lunch of Italian shepherds. They carry
along half a loaf of bread and dozens of whole heads of garlic which
are roasted in the embers of olive twig fires until they become soft
as butter and are then spread on the bread. Since cooking takes
the strong taste and high spirit out of all onions, this is much milder
than garlic sliced raw on bread moistened with olive oil.
But we use olive oil mostly in the form of mayonnaise, and it's a
pleasant change to spread bread with that, especially if a little
relish, such as chopped chives or piccalilli is mixed into the mayon-
naise. Or try beating the yolk of a hard-cooked egg into it, with a
little salt and a couple of drops of Tabasco.
Such relishes go as well and tend to go farther when mixed with
butter, and when creamed with ordinary cottage or Dutch cheese,
63
64 MOST-FOR-YOUR-MONEY COOK BOOK
which is good food and also cheap all over the world, youVe got
something.
Here are some suggestions for savory spreads to take the curse
off common salty store butter:
In summer mince fresh petals of roses, nasturtiums, violets,
orange blossoms, apple, peach — in fact any fruity blossoms and
perfumy flowers such as honey-filled clover heads, and mix them
with ordinary butter, or with cottage or cream cheese and mayon-
naise. This is a common practice in Europe, where spreads are
never monotonous.
GIBLET SPREADS
Pound cooked livers, hearts, gizzards, the little eggs found inside
a fat hen, or any combination thereof to make a paste with butter,
cream cheese or mayonnaise for toast or crackers.
CELERY
Instead of throwing away fresh celery leaves pound them to a
paste, pep them up with a little vinegar or lemon juice and salt,
mix into an equal amount of butter, cheese or mayonnaise.
AVOCADO BUTTER
When avocados are both ripe and cheap, scoop the luscious
vegetable butter out of the shell and mash it to a paste, seasoning
with a little lemon juice and salt. This is a most refreshing spread
as is, or it can be mixed with equal parts of regular butter.
NUT SPREADS
Pound nuts to oily paste, season with salt and cayenne and mix
into 3-4 times as much softened butter, cheese, or mayonnaise.
SHRIMP BUTTER
4-5 DRIED SHRIMP ^i POUND SWEET BUTTER
Pound dried shrimp to powder and cream into butter, then rub
it through a fine sieve.
Dried shrimp can be bought reasonably in any Chinatown. They
are already shelled, so it isn't much trouble to pound them to
SAVORY SPREADS 65
powder and use like curry in seasoning anything which lends itself
to their high, sharp flavor.
Page 33
Presented as published in 1938. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Butter is such a universal spread we seldom think of changing to cream cheese, smearcase, mayonnaise and other equally good lubricators for bread. But in Europe butter is only one of the spreads and plain juicy black or rye bread is just as often covered with chicken fat, olive oil, even plain mustard, to make an appetizing snack with beer and other drinks. Such things as catsup, chili sauce, pickled horseradish and garlic roasted soft make a slice of honest, well-knit bread, white or black, into a miniature meal. In fact, this last is the standard lunch of Italian shepherds. They carry along half a loaf of bread and dozens of whole heads of garlic which are roasted in the embers of olive twig fires until they become soft as butter and are then spread on the bread. Since cooking takes the strong taste and high spirit out of all onions, this is much milder than garlic sliced raw on bread moistened with olive oil.
But we use olive oil mostly in the form of mayonnaise, and it's a pleasant change to spread bread with that, especially if a little relish, such as chopped chives or piccalilli is mixed into the mayonnaise. Or try beating the yolk of a hard-cooked egg into it, with a little salt and a couple of drops of Tabasco.
Such relishes go as well and tend to go farther when mixed with butter, and when creamed with ordinary cottage or Dutch cheese,
which is good food and also cheap all over the world, you've got something.
Here are some suggestions for savory spreads to take the curse off common salty store butter:
In summer mince fresh petals of roses, nasturtiums, violets, orange blossoms, apple, peach — in fact any fruity blossoms and perfumy flowers such as honey-filled clover heads, and mix them with ordinary butter, or with cottage or cream cheese and mayonnaise. This is a common practice in Europe, where spreads are never monotonous.
GIBLET SPREADS
Pound cooked livers, hearts, gizzards, the little eggs found inside a fat hen, or any combination thereof to make a paste with butter, cream cheese or mayonnaise for toast or crackers.
CELERY
Instead of throwing away fresh celery leaves pound them to a paste, pep them up with a little vinegar or lemon juice and salt, mix into an equal amount of butter, cheese or mayonnaise.
AVOCADO BUTTER
When avocados are both ripe and cheap, scoop the luscious vegetable butter out of the shell and mash it to a paste, seasoning with a little lemon juice and salt. This is a most refreshing spread as is, or it can be mixed with equal parts of regular butter.
NUT SPREADS
Pound nuts to oily paste, season with salt and cayenne and mix into 3-4 times as much softened butter, cheese, or mayonnaise.
SHRIMP BUTTER
4-5 DRIED SHRIMP ^i POUND SWEET BUTTER
Pound dried shrimp to powder and cream into butter, then rub it through a fine sieve.
Dried shrimp can be bought reasonably in any Chinatown. They are already shelled, so it isn't much trouble to pound them to
SAVORY SPREADS 65
powder and use like curry in seasoning anything which lends itself to their high, sharp flavor.