Most for your money cookbook

Like many words used by fishing folk, the name for this herring pickle has an amusing derivation. "Roll-mops" is only a shortened form of "roll-'em-ups.** FISH STEAKS The cuts or steaks of big fish are always a good buy, because there's no waste. Tuna, swordfish, salmon and muskellunge, for instance, when they're in season, are much better buys than the cheapest of meats, and it's easy to fry or bake such toothsome steaks, never forgetting to spice them well with herbs. TUNA A welcome change from canned salmon is canned tuna fish. It costs more, but there is a small saving which brings the price down a little. For every good brand of tuna floats in a fine, flavorsome oil which serves in place of butter to spread the bread accompany- ing a tuna salad or sandwich, so if you spread it thin enough you may make up most of the added cost by the butter saving. But even if you don't, a change of diet has the variety value which keeps the stomach tuned to its work and saves doctor bills. And tuna offers a variety in itself, since the dark meat and white meat are canned separately, exactly as with chicken, which it resembles in taste if not in price. Italians, who drag it up out of the Mediterranean by the ton and buy it in fresh slices like beefsteak, call it "sea veal." And since fresh tuna is getting more common here, we can take FISH IN EVERY FASHION 5I a tip from them in eating fresh tomatoes with it, the tomatoes made pungent with plenty of minced fresh basil. This is a perfect sequence — basil on tomatoes and tomatoes on "tunny," as the English call it. FISH CHOWDER 2 POUNDS COD OR SIMILAR FISH yi TABLESPOON SALT I PINT SLICED POTATOES WHITE PEPPER I SLICE SALT PORK 2 CUPS MILK 1 ONION, SLICED 1 TABLESPOONS BUTTER 2 PARSLEY SPRIGS 2 TABLESPOONS FLOUR 2 CELERY SPRIGS 2-3 PILOT CRACKERS Cut off fish head, split fish and remove bones. Cut up, looking very carefully for hidden bones and making sure that all have been removed. Lay potatoes in cold water for an hour. Dice pork and fry until all fat is fried out; remove pork and save for other cooking. Slowly fry onion in pork fat until golden. Cover fish head and bones with cold water, slowly bring to boiling point and simmer 30-40 minutes. Strain liquor through fine sieve. Parboil potatoes 5 minutes and add seasonings, herbs, fish, I cup milk, and the fish liquor, with enough water added to it to make i pint. Simmer until potatoes are tender. Make a thick white sauce with butter, flour, and remaining cup of milk. Lift out solid portions of chowder with a skimmer, add white sauce to liquid, simmer and stir, then pour over the chowder. Break crackers over top, and serve at once. FISH SOUP Make a cooking liquor by boiling a carrot, celery stalk, and onion, all sliced, with i parsley sprig, 2 cloves, a bit of bay leaf and 6-8 peppercorns, for half an hour, in sufficient water to immerse the fish. Add salt, put in the fish and cook it. The flavor will be much better than if cooked in plain water. Save the liquor to make soup for another meal; when ready to serve, strain and reduce by 52 MOST-FOR-YOUR-MONEY COOK BOOK