Thrifty Europeans,
who, as a rule, live better than we do on less, claim that we throw
away more than we eat, and that comes too close to the truth to be
any comfort to our intelligence. But even if we won't stop wasting
and listening to the siren call of radio experts who sell us foodless
food, blown up bran at half a dollar a pound and readymixed
gingerbread that costs more to make than the finished cake would
be at an honest baker's, we certainly can stretch the food dollar by
countless culinary tricks, all of which are appetizing, healthful
and interesting.
MOST-FOR-YOUR-MONEY COOK BOOK
For instance, few cooks know the advantage of snow as an
ingredient, yet a cup of freshly fallen snow actually takes the
place of two eggs in making a pudding light and toothsome. Like-
wise, snow saves on milk in mixing Snow Waffles and Pancakes
which have a finer texture because of the chemicals released in
melting — some say it's the ammonia.
And anybody with access to a sunny window can cook jam and
preserves at no cost, by using the sun's heat for fuel. Also, a cost-
less, fireless cooker supplements the stove for dishes requiring long
cooking.
In lavish pioneer days our ancestors naturally went for the prime
cuts, tenderloin and chops, and threw away the equally valuable
giblets, kidneys, hearts and tidbits, all of which are quite as good
for us as the calves' liver which doctors discovered a few years
back and which, as a result of their prescribing it for anemia and
such, shot up in price from ten to seventy cents a pound. The same
thing happened with the sweetbreads butchers used to throw
away because it was so hard to give them away. As for liver, lambs'
liver still sells for 30^ a pound and is just as succulent as calves'
at more than twice the price — we honestly prefer it, and get added
satisfaction out of the saving. But calves' hearts, all meat and no
waste and even tastier than the liver when well cooked, are still a
drug on the butcher's block. For a dime we buy two of them,
weighing well over a pound, and make them into ritzy dishes we
wouldn't be ashamed to set before Oscar of the Waldorf. As a
matter of fact, he'd probably prefer our Braised Hearts to Capon
a la Financiered for chefs know what's what and their favorite
food is raw hamburger — Beef Tartar, the fresh uncooked meat
that can't be faked by cooking it "high" with onions.
The insular English who never knew our abundance have always
enjoyed frugal meat dishes such as "Bubble and Squeak" and
"Toad in the Hole," while the epicurean French go for a dish
of lungs, which we throw away. Kidneys, which we also neglect,
are almost as much of a fetish with Englishmen as calves' liver
with us, and when Englishmen travel — those who can afford
STRETCHING THE FOOD DOLLAR
to — they have frozen kidneys shipped out to them even in
Egypt.
Page 1
Presented as published in 1938. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Thrifty Europeans, who, as a rule, live better than we do on less, claim that we throw away more than we eat, and that comes too close to the truth to be any comfort to our intelligence. But even if we won't stop wasting and listening to the siren call of radio experts who sell us foodless food, blown up bran at half a dollar a pound and ready-mixed gingerbread that costs more to make than the finished cake would be at an honest baker's, we certainly can stretch the food dollar by countless culinary tricks, all of which are appetizing, healthful and interesting.
For instance, few cooks know the advantage of snow as an ingredient, yet a cup of freshly fallen snow actually takes the place of two eggs in making a pudding light and toothsome. Likewise, snow saves on milk in mixing Snow Waffles and Pancakes which have a finer texture because of the chemicals released in melting — some say it's the ammonia.
And anybody with access to a sunny window can cook jam and preserves at no cost, by using the sun's heat for fuel. Also, a costless, fireless cooker supplements the stove for dishes requiring long cooking.
In lavish pioneer days our ancestors naturally went for the prime cuts, tenderloin and chops, and threw away the equally valuable giblets, kidneys, hearts and tidbits, all of which are quite as good for us as the calves' liver which doctors discovered a few years back and which, as a result of their prescribing it for anemia and such, shot up in price from ten to seventy cents a pound. The same thing happened with the sweetbreads butchers used to throw away because it was so hard to give them away. As for liver, lambs' liver still sells for 30¢ a pound and is just as succulent as calves' at more than twice the price — we honestly prefer it, and get added satisfaction out of the saving. But calves' hearts, all meat and no waste and even tastier than the liver when well cooked, are still a drug on the butcher's block. For a dime we buy two of them, weighing well over a pound, and make them into ritzy dishes we wouldn't be ashamed to set before Oscar of the Waldorf. As a matter of fact, he'd probably prefer our Braised Hearts to Capon à la Financière for chefs know what's what and their favorite food is raw hamburger — Beef Tartar, the fresh uncooked meat that can't be faked by cooking it "high" with onions.
The insular English who never knew our abundance have always enjoyed frugal meat dishes such as "Bubble and Squeak" and "Toad in the Hole," while the epicurean French go for a dish of lungs, which we throw away. Kidneys, which we also neglect, are almost as much of a fetish with Englishmen as calves' liver with us, and when Englishmen travel — those who can afford
STRETCHING THE FOOD DOLLAR
to — they have frozen kidneys shipped out to them even in Egypt.