Miss Parloa's kitchen companion

oysters, and are suitable for frying, broiling, stuffing, etc. They bring the highest price, of course. " Selects " also are large oysters, coming next to counts. They are called "culls" in some places. "Straights" are the oysters taken as they come, large and small. The smallest oysters are called stewing oysters. In cooking oysters, few people consider how delicate they are and how easily spoiled. The seasonings used should be few and of the most delicate kind ; and no matter what the mode of preparation be, the cooking should never be prolonged after the oysters have become plump and their edges curl. Too much cooking makes them shrink and grow tough. In planning for a dish of oysters in almost any form, nearly all the work may be performed some time previous to the meal. The cooking should not be done until everything has been so arranged that the dish may be sent to the table the moment it is finished. The foundation of an oyster soup may be made a considerable time before dinner, and the oysters and liquor added later. Then with creamed oysters, the cream may be prepared, the oysters heated to the boiling-point in their own liquor, drained, and set aside for half an hour, if need be, without injury, provided they are not kept hot ; and at serving-time it will only be necessary to add them to the hot sauce. Oysters may be breaded and put away, in a cool place, for a long time before they are fried ; but they should be eaten just as soon as they are cooked in order to taste them in perfection. It is the same with escaloped oysters ; they may be prepared considerably in advance of the cooking, yet must be served immediately after coming from the oven in order t( obtain the greatest satisfaction from them. It is surpris ing that people take so much pains in cooking oysters and then fail of placing them upon the table with the least possible delay. A last word of caution : avoid over-cooking. To Serve Raw Oysters. Kaw oysters are served on the half-shell, in oyster plates, and in a block of ice. Serve each person with five or six oysters and a quarter of a lemon. Pass thin slices of buttered brown or graham bread. Be sure that the butter is spread very thin on the bread. Little-neck clams take the place of oysters during the hot weather, and are served in the same manner. * Stewed Oysters. Drain all the liquor from a quart of oysters, and, putting it into a stew-pan, let it heat slowly, being careful that it does not get burned. When it has been heated to the boiling-point, skim it carefully. Meanwhile heat a quart of milk in a double-boiler ; and when it begins to boil, add the skimmed liquor, the oysters, two table-spoonfuls of butter, and salt and pepper to suit the taste. Let the stew boil up once, and then serve. Many people think that a few — say four — tablespoonfuls of powdered cracker improve the stew. If any cracker be used, add it when the oysters are put in. Oysters Saute.