the chuck rib. Good pieces of the round, which accumulate in small, unsightly portions on every butcher's counter, cost little and, by the aid of the household meat chopper, can be converted into Hamburg steak. I have something of a preju- dice against market Hamburg steak, preferring to see with my own eyes the meat which goes through the chopper. It costs less and adds a relish to sausage when it, too, is homemade. Odd pieces of pork can be had for the watching and at low cost in every market. For the people who like it, tripe provides an occasional good and cheap meal. Three or four pounds of lamb from the forequarter costs ten cents a pound, and is nutritious as a fricassee with brown gravy or as an Irish stew. Nothing makes a nicer stew or broth than a neck of mutton, one of the cheapest cuts of the sheep. Then in pork there is the old-fashioned, savory dish of spare ribs stuffed, while in veal rich stews may be made from the knuckle when cooked for a soup after the method suggested in the making of beef stock. THE CUTS OF MEAT The method of dividing up the carcasses of slaughtered animals varies considerably in different localities. The ac- companying diagrams illustrate the cuts generally made. On Plates V to X inclusive will be found illustrations of all the principal steaks and roasts of beef and lamb chops. MAKING THE MOST OF MEATS A famous chef once described tersely the slow, simmer- ing process required by a stew or soup. He said: "Never allow the water to laugh, let it smile — smile slightly." If every cook could be made to understand what "smiling" means, we would have cheap, tough meat appearing before us made so tender that it would scarcely require a sharpened knife. Instead of this we have expensive cuts which carve with the consistency of shoe leather simply because they have boiled at a broad grin. 78 THE HOME COOK BOOK If meats which have been boiled be left with the lid off, to cool in their own stock, they will be much more tender and juicy than if lifted from the boiling pot liquor to the platter. Corned beef is much improved by being cooked the day ^jM/^(y^'l Diagram of Cuts of Beef before it is to be used. Let it cool oflf in its liquor, then cover, and when needed reheat slowly. Do not allow the liquor to boil, simply allow it to continue at the simmering point until the meat is heated through. Diagram of Cuts of Veal Do not pour the corned beef liquor away. Save it to keep the meat in until the last morsel has been used for hash. Corned beef cold which is kept in the liquor does not seem ECONOMY IN MARKETING AND COOKING 79 like a piece of the same creature as when it is left to become dry and hard on an uncovered platter. A piece of corned beef, even when rolled, frequently pre- sents a ragged, unsightly appearance. Take a pair of sharp, clean scissors, such as ought to hang in every pantry, and Diagram of Cuts of Pork trim the meat into presentable shape. Set the trimmings away to be used as hash. When a smoked ham is about half used up, steam what is left on the smaller end. Wash, and soak it in cold water for an hour, then steam for five or six hours, setting the meat cut side down on a plate in the steamer. If it is to be served hot, the ham will be improved by browning it in the oven after steaming.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

the chuck rib. Good pieces of the round, which accumulate in small, unsightly portions on every butcher's counter, cost little and, by the aid of the household meat chopper, can be converted into Hamburg steak. I have something of a prejudice against market Hamburg steak, preferring to see with my own eyes the meat which goes through the chopper. It costs less and adds a relish to sausage when it, too, is homemade. Odd pieces of pork can be had for the watching and at low cost in every market. For the people who like it, tripe provides an occasional good and cheap meal. Three or four pounds of lamb from the forequarter costs ten cents a pound, and is nutritious as a fricassee with brown gravy or as an Irish stew. Nothing makes a nicer stew or broth than a neck of mutton, one of the cheapest cuts of the sheep. Then in pork there is the old-fashioned, savory dish of spare ribs stuffed, while in veal rich stews may be made from the knuckle when cooked for a soup after the method suggested in the making of beef stock. THE CUTS OF MEAT The method of dividing up the carcasses of slaughtered animals varies considerably in different localities. The accompanying diagrams illustrate the cuts generally made. On Plates V to X inclusive will be found illustrations of all the principal steaks and roasts of beef and lamb chops. MAKING THE MOST OF MEATS A famous chef once described tersely the slow, simmering process required by a stew or soup. He said: "Never allow the water to laugh, let it smile — smile slightly." If every cook could be made to understand what "smiling" means, we would have cheap, tough meat appearing before us made so tender that it would scarcely require a sharpened knife. Instead of this we have expensive cuts which carve with the consistency of shoe leather simply because they have boiled at a broad grin. If meats which have been boiled be left with the lid off, to cool in their own stock, they will be much more tender and juicy than if lifted from the boiling pot liquor to the platter. Corned beef is much improved by being cooked the day ^jM/^(y^'l Diagram of Cuts of Beef before it is to be used. Let it cool oflf in its liquor, then cover, and when needed reheat slowly. Do not allow the liquor to boil, simply allow it to continue at the simmering point until the meat is heated through. Diagram of Cuts of Veal Do not pour the corned beef liquor away. Save it to keep the meat in until the last morsel has been used for hash. Corned beef cold which is kept in the liquor does not seem ECONOMY IN MARKETING AND COOKING 79 like a piece of the same creature as when it is left to become dry and hard on an uncovered platter. A piece of corned beef, even when rolled, frequently presents a ragged, unsightly appearance. Take a pair of sharp, clean scissors, such as ought to hang in every pantry, and Diagram of Cuts of Pork trim the meat into presentable shape. Set the trimmings away to be used as hash. When a smoked ham is about half used up, steam what is left on the smaller end. Wash, and soak it in cold water for an hour, then steam for five or six hours, setting the meat cut side down on a plate in the steamer. If it is to be served hot, the ham will be improved by browning it in the oven after steaming.

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