FoodNet

Historic Paxton, her days and her ways, 1722-1913

1913

Page 81

Presented as published in 1913. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
soil and flower freely for many years without very much attention, but, like everything else, do better if pampered a little. They bloom from early July until killed by frost, if the heads are cut down as soon as they have finished flowering. I take up my plants and divide them once in every four years. This replanting is best done between the first and middle of October. Miss Lingard, white, and Elizabeth Campbell, deep salmon pink, are especially good varieties. Fall Anemone This beautiful flower of autumn is too little grown, because most people do not understand it. It is very easy to raise when once started. From one small stock planted in a corner I now have a large bed. Most of mine are white, but I have had good success with the semi-double pink variety. Cover with manure in the fall and work in a little in the spring. They bloom from Au- gust to frost. Gladioli Gladioli are troublesome, as they must be taken up each year and kept over winter, but they are so showy in the garden and so fine to cut that I am never without them. They should be planted in beds by themselves or among the border from April 15 to June 15. Put in the smaller bulbs first and the bigger later, and set four inches apart and five inches deep. Never plant two years in succession in the same bed. Take up the bulbs the latter part of October, 232 dry off, pack the special varieties in marked paper bags and keep in a warm cellar. The Annuals Some people affect to despise annuals these days, but I couldn't get along without them; they are splendid for quick growth in a country garden. I always have the soil in my beds fine for sowing my seed, then follow carefully the directions given on each package. After the seed is in I take a flat board and firm the soil. Annuals are especially good to fill up bare places where the bulbs and early vegetables have finished growing. I cover my bulb beds with petunias and portulacca. They do better on the tulip beds than on narcissi, as tulip foliage dies sooner. I plant the seed between the rows and weed out and transplant to the right distance apart, about eight inches. I sow the marigolds, African and French, in a seed bed and after the vegetables are over put them in the beds where the peas were. I use asters in the same way, but also give them beds to themselves because I grow plenty of asters. They are not hard to raise if you do not put them two years running in the same spot. Watch for the aster beetle and at the first sight spray the plants with a teaspoon of Paris-green mixed in six quarts of water. Stronger than that will burn the plants. Use a fine nozzle for spraying. Wood ashes scattered on the ground are very good for asters. Then I have plenty of cosmos for a late fall 233 GARDENING NOTES flower. It is not hard to grow but troublesome to stake, and the later varieties are almost sure to be caught by frost. Scarlet sage is a bright, cheerful flower in the garden in late fall, and I always have some of it. I usually keep it off by itself; it kills the other colors. It is easy to raise and will sow itself and come up where it falls. Snapdragon I plant every year, as it is one of my favorites. If sown early in the spring, it will bloom from July to frost. It transplants easily. I use the Giant snapdragons entirely. Some of the other sorts will seed themselves.