Four seasons cookery books

Oranges: These are hard to judge for quality by the look of the skins alone as even the best looking ones may be dry, coarse in texture and full of pips. Bitter oranges, of which the Seville is best, have numerous pips and acid flesh which makes them unsuitable for the fruit bowl but perfect for making marmalade. In winter my choice is the oval- shaped Jaffa (the best variety being the Shamouti) which has few seeds and is very juicy. In this case the coarsely grained thick skin is mis- leading. Navel oranges are good too. They also have few pips and very juicy flesh, with smooth thin skins. At other times of the year, the round Valencia is particularly juicy and sweet and the Malta orange — usually called ‘blood’ orange because of its colour—is very fully flavoured though more burdened with pips. Small oranges are usually cheaper, but simply because the proportion of rind and pith to flesh is higher. Other types of orange with exotic names are winter imports. These include the mandarin, with a loose, light orange skin and many pips; the tangerine, with a loose almost red skin and many pips; the clemen- tine, which is more like a genuine orange and has a firm skin. It is practically seedless and so is the satsuma, which has a much paler skin and flesh, the skin sometimes being tinged with green. Lemons and limes: These can be judged for goodness by their smooth skins and heavy weight for their size. Juicy ones are usually heavy. Grapefruit: These should be very firm. Again, fruits with a thick spongy peel weigh light in the hand and have a poor content of juice and flesh. Storage for a few days after purchase usually makes them sweet enough to be eaten without sugar. Pink grapefruit with yellow skins and pale pink flesh are particularly sweet. Unusual fruits of the orange family are crosses between two mem- bers. The ugli fruit is a cross between a tangerine and a grapefruit, is larger than the average grapefruit with a very thick slightly greenish skin and occasionally to be seen here in midwinter. The ortanique is a cross between an orange and a tangerine, is about the size of a large flattened orange with a yellowish thin skin. Midwinter — Time to make marmalade Follow these simple rules for successful marmalade: ibs Choose fruit as fresh as possible. Bitter oranges give a sharp and tangy flavour and are preferable to sweet oranges if you prefer the traditional type marmalade. Any combination of citrus fruits can be used. These include lemons, oranges, grapefruit, tangerines or clementines. . Pectin is essential for a well-set marmalade. This is found in the pith (the white layer beneath the peel) and in the pips. The pith and the pips must be cooked with the fruit to ensure sufficient pectin for setting. . Sugar helps the marmalade set and keep. A general rule is to add 1 1b./450 g. preserving or granulated sugar to 1 pint/generous 3 litre juice or pulp. . Test for setting after the sugar has been added. Boil the marmalade rapidly and test after 15 minutes, then every five minutes until the setting point is reached. There are three setting tests that can be used. When testing for the setting point, remove the marmalade from the heat so it does not overboil. (a) Thermometer—Insert the thermometer in the boiling mar- malade, making sure the bulb does not touch the bottom of the saucepan. A reading of 220°F/105°C indicates that setting point is reached. (b) Cold plate test—Pour a small amount of marmalade on a cold plate and allow to cool. If a wrinkled skin forms on the surface, the setting point is reached. (c) Drop test— Dip a large spoon into the marmalade. Allow the marmalade to run off the spoon. When the setting point is reached the marmalade will partially set on the spoon and drop off the edge of the spoon in one large flake. Storage —Choose jars that are free from chips or cracks, wash well