Teas from India, Ceylon, Java, and Suma¬
tra are usually black. Those from Formosa
are oolong or partly fermented and those
from Japan are usually green.
The grades shown above are determined
by the size or maturity of the leaves, or the
location of the leaves on the stem. For ex¬
ample, the Flowery Pekoe is the smallest
leaves and the Soochong the largest or
coarsest leaves. Likewise, Gunpowder is the
smallest and Hyson the largest leaves of the
green teas.
Most of the China black tea sold to the
United States is known as "Congou,” which
is a blend including the Pekoe to the Soo¬
chong. The higher grades also may be
blends. The flowery Pekoe to Pekoe are
usually designated fancy teas. These are
sometimes scented with blossoms of other
plants, usually chulan blossoms, which have
a fragrance similar to that of jasmine.
Preparation for Market. The tea leaves
are gathered three or four times during the
year, oftener in Ceylon, where there is no
winter. The first crop is considered the most
desirable and provides the most expensive
teas. The second is the more usual tea of
commerce. The third and the fourth, in
case there is a fourth collection, make up the
least expensive teas.
Very soon after collection the tea is placed
on copper trays and heated or steamed to
wither the leaves. The regulation of this
step makes the difference between the green
and the black teas. The black teas are heated
just enough to wither the leaves and to make
rolling possible, but the enzymes are not
destroyed. The green teas are heated so as to
destroy the oxidizing enzymes but not suf¬
ficiently to destroy all the enzymes, for in
that case the flavor of the tea is impaired.
The next step is the rolling of the tea
leaves. These are rolled with the hands or
feet and in some cases by machinery. The
purpose of the rolling is to accelerate the
drying and increase the ease of extraction of
the soluble constituents. At this stage comes
the fermentation of the black tea. This is
allowed to proceed for several days and brings
about quite definite changes in the composi¬
tion of the leaves as well as in their color.
After rolling of the green, and after fer¬
mentation of the black, the teas are dried.
This may be accomplished in the sun, but is
now effected in many places by means of
artificial heat.
After drying, the tea is submitted to a re¬
firing which greatly improves its quality.
The optimum temperature for the firing of
the green tea is about 158° F. for one hour,
while the temperature for black tea is some¬
what higher, about 176° F. If these teas are
heated to a higher temperature, both color
and flavor are impaired.
Composition and Use. With tea, as with
coffee, the interest is in the composition of
the infusion rather than in the composition
of the tea leaves.
The stimulating principle in tea is theine,
an alkaloid which is identical with caffeine
in coffee. The astringent, tannin or tannic
acid, is an undesirable constitutent which is
found in fairly large amounts in teas of the
different kinds. It is bitter in flavor and is
dissolved slowly in hot water. The amount
[341]
U.S.D.A.
Testing Tea • Standards for tea are established
each year by a board of tea experts, working
with the Supervising Tea Examiner of the Food
and Drug Administration. Samples of all teas
are taken at ports of entry for testing. Taste and
Page 315
Presented as published in 1935. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Teas from India, Ceylon, Java, and Suma¬ tra are usually black. Those from Formosa are oolong or partly fermented and those from Japan are usually green.
The grades shown above are determined by the size or maturity of the leaves, or the location of the leaves on the stem. For ex¬ ample, the Flowery Pekoe is the smallest leaves and the Soochong the largest or coarsest leaves. Likewise, Gunpowder is the smallest and Hyson the largest leaves of the green teas.
Most of the China black tea sold to the United States is known as "Congou,” which is a blend including the Pekoe to the Soo¬ chong. The higher grades also may be blends. The flowery Pekoe to Pekoe are usually designated fancy teas. These are sometimes scented with blossoms of other plants, usually chulan blossoms, which have a fragrance similar to that of jasmine.
Preparation for Market. The tea leaves are gathered three or four times during the year, oftener in Ceylon, where there is no winter. The first crop is considered the most desirable and provides the most expensive teas. The second is the more usual tea of commerce. The third and the fourth, in case there is a fourth collection, make up the least expensive teas.
Very soon after collection the tea is placed on copper trays and heated or steamed to wither the leaves. The regulation of this step makes the difference between the green and the black teas. The black teas are heated just enough to wither the leaves and to make rolling possible, but the enzymes are not destroyed. The green teas are heated so as to destroy the oxidizing enzymes but not suf¬ ficiently to destroy all the enzymes, for in that case the flavor of the tea is impaired.
The next step is the rolling of the tea leaves. These are rolled with the hands or feet and in some cases by machinery. The purpose of the rolling is to accelerate the drying and increase the ease of extraction of the soluble constituents. At this stage comes the fermentation of the black tea. This is allowed to proceed for several days and brings about quite definite changes in the composi¬ tion of the leaves as well as in their color.
After rolling of the green, and after fer¬ mentation of the black, the teas are dried. This may be accomplished in the sun, but is now effected in many places by means of artificial heat.
After drying, the tea is submitted to a re¬ firing which greatly improves its quality. The optimum temperature for the firing of the green tea is about 158° F. for one hour, while the temperature for black tea is some¬ what higher, about 176° F. If these teas are heated to a higher temperature, both color and flavor are impaired.
Composition and Use. With tea, as with coffee, the interest is in the composition of the infusion rather than in the composition of the tea leaves.
The stimulating principle in tea is theine, an alkaloid which is identical with caffeine in coffee. The astringent, tannin or tannic acid, is an undesirable constitutent which is found in fairly large amounts in teas of the different kinds. It is bitter in flavor and is dissolved slowly in hot water. The amount
[341]
Testing Tea • Standards for tea are established each year by a board of tea experts, working with the Supervising Tea Examiner of the Food and Drug Administration. Samples of all teas are taken at ports of entry for testing. Taste and