FoodNet

Foods, their selection and preparation

1935

Page 292 · 1 recipe record on this page

Presented as published in 1935. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
As explained in the chapter on leavening agents, salt-rising bread is made light by gases that are liberated by the action of cer¬ tain bacteria. As this bread is usually made in the home, these bacteria are obtained from corn meal. Salt-rising bread is made in the bakery from a ferment of the necessary bac¬ teria, although the commercial culture used is usually called "salt-rising yeast.” These bacteria are very resistant since they are in the spore state. Salt-rising bread is some¬ what less light than that made from yeast, is more velvety in texture, and has a pro¬ nounced flavor and aroma. This flavor can be controlled by the use of scalded milk in the preparation of the bread and a pure cul¬ ture of the bacteria responsible for the gas formation. Preparation of Leaven. The ordinary household procedure for the preparation of the leaven is to use about 4 tablespoons corn meal, 1 teaspoon salt, and 2 teaspoons sugar. To these add 1 cup milk, heated to just be¬ low the boilinSalt-Rising Breadg point. The mixture should have a temperature of about 167° F. This kills the microorganisms present except the certain spc re-bearing bacteria which are the active agents in leavening the bread. This mixture is allowed to stand overnight at a temperature slightly higher than that of the body, and in the morning it should look light and puffy. It is then ready to use in making the bread. The preparation of the leaven is the most difficult step in making the bread. The bac¬ teria may be absent from the corn meal, the temperature of the mixture may be too high and kill the spores, or not high enough and allow the development of other forms that may be harmful. But what is more likely is that the sponge may not have been kept at the optimum temperature during the night. These different points can be controlled only through scientific methods and the best way to be sure of satisfactory results is to use dried cultures of the bacteria. Nearly all the old recipes for the prepara¬ tion of salt-rising bread called for the use of soda. This led to the assumption on the part of some authorities that the leavening effect was due to the liberation of carbon dioxide from the soda by the action of acids formed from the constituents of the bread by the bacteria. Many recipes which give excellent results do not call for soda; so it is not con¬ sidered an important factor in leavening. The bacteria leaven the bread by breaking down certain of its constituents, principally the sugars, forming carbon dioxide and hy¬ drogen. This leaven cannot be kept in a moist condition, for then the bacteria rapidly lose their gas-producing power. It can be kept without difficulty if dried. Making the Bread. In the morning, if the mixture is fluffy, indicating that the organ¬ isms have developed properly, it is added to a sponge prepared as for yeast breads. This is allowed to rise until it is light to the touch and then flour is added to make a dough. The dough is formed immediately into loaves [318]