FoodNet

Foods, their selection and preparation

1935

Page 264

Presented as published in 1935. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Steam as Leavening. In practically all batters and doughs, a certain amount of liquid is volatilized and helps to leaven the mixture. Where the proportion of liquid is high, as in popovers and cream puffs, steam is the only leavening agent. Mix¬ tures leavened only by steam require a hot oven to raise the liquid to the boiling point very quickly. Such mixtures are characterized by large central cavities, in the case of popovers and cream puffs made from batters, and by a decided increase in volume in both batters and doughs. Steam has great leavening ability, since water increases in volume many times in changing from liquid to steam. Pastry is the typical dough leavened by steam. Carbonated water was used at one time in England in the preparation of so-called aerated bread. This bread was made by mixing the dough under pressure with charged water. When the pressure was re¬ leased, the dough expanded. Further expan¬ sion occurred when the bread was baked. In dilute form, alcohol may be used as an aid in leavening. It volatilizes at a low temperature, forming a gas that may help to leaven certain mixtures. The brandy and other alcoholic beverages used in fruit cake, plum pudding, and pound cake are primarily for flavor, yet there is some leavening effect from them. Baking Soda. All chemical methods of leavening depend upon the liberation of carbon dioxide from a carbonate by the use of an acid. The carbonate used is the so- called "baking soda” or sodium bicarbonate. The chemical methods of leavening are simple and easily controlled even in the hands of the inexperienced, but they do not develop flavor in the dough as the fermen¬ tation methods do, and they leave a residue which in some cases may be undesirable. In general, the chemical action which pro¬ duces leavening may be illustrated by the following equation: Soda + acid = carbon dioxide + a residue salt + water Probably the simplest of the chemical means of leavening are those in which soda is used in combination with some acid liquid ingredient. It is important in using soda to know just the amount to add, for not only is an excess of soda unpalatable, but it decreases somewhat the vitamin con¬ tent of the foods. Sour milk and buttermilk are the acid- containing liquids most used for chemical leavening. The acid in both is the same, lactic acid. In the souring of milk the lactic acid is formed from lactose. After eight per cent of lactic acid has been formed, the lactic-acid fermentation stops. This is indicated by the fact that the content of lactose remains constant. On this basis and also by neutralizing carefully measured volumes of sour milk, it is found that the amount of soda necessary to neutralize each cup of milk is 8.36 grams, or, in household terms, a scant half teaspoon. [290] When fruit juice is an ingredient of a batter or dough, soda may be used to pro¬ duce carbon dioxide. Also the acid of cut¬ up fruit in cakes and cookies will combine with soda to form some carbon dioxide.