FoodNet

Foods, their selection and preparation

1935

Page 142

Presented as published in 1935. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Initial smoothness is largely determined by the body of the mixture. Substances in solution such as sugar, which increases the viscosity of the mixture, improve the texture by decreasing the amount of ice formed. The amount and fineness of division of the solids present, other than those in true solu¬ tion, contribute to smoothness by interfer¬ ence with the formation of large crystals. The most important of these is fat. The finer the emulsion of the fat the more satis¬ factory it is in making the frozen cream smooth. This explains the good results from homogenized cream. With other materials the same is true. The finer the division of the particles, the more effective they are in con¬ trolling crystal formation and in making an ice cream that is initially smooth. But in commercial ice creams, initial smoothness is not enough. Supplies must be held for varying periods of time at low temperatures. It is important that this be done without loss of initial smoothness. This resistance of a frozen mixture to change in texture, when held at low temperatures, is called stability. Stability of the ice cream depends upon the permanence of the suspension of the ma¬ terials that give body and texture. It is aided by the addition of substances which in¬ crease the viscosity of the mixture, and so tend to prevent the separation of the fat globules and any other colloidal particles suspended in the cream. This is sometimes referred to as "binding” frozen mixtures. Gelatin and vegetable gums used to stabi¬ lize or bind these mixtures are called stabi¬ lizers. These stabilizers increase the viscosity of the mixture, help to hold any particles in suspension, and so retard the development of large crystals. Most commercial ice creams have three tenths to five tenths of one per cent of these or other stabilizers added for this purpose. A small amount is useful; more than one half of one per cent is objectionable, and may be looked upon as an adulterant. Also important in determining the texture of ice cream and other frozen mixtures is the method of freezing. In obtaining a smooth frozen product, the temperature of freezing, the amount of air incorporated during freez¬ ing, and the rapidity of freezing are all fac¬ tors. These will be discussed later. FRUIT ICES Ices are popular as homemade desserts and serve as a useful and palatable means of add¬ ing the nutrients in fruit to the diet. The development of methods of holding fruit pulp frozen and canned has stimulated their use in ices as well as in ice creams. The in¬ creased use of natural fruit juice and pulp to flavor commercially prepared fruit ices has improved the body and texture of these ices as well as their food value. Flavor is specially important in ices. They should be stronger in flavor than mixtures to be used without freezing. Lemon juice seems to accent the flavor of other fruit juices, so that regardless of the predominating fruit flavor, the addition of a small amount of lemon improves any flavor except those of very acid fruits. Salt in small amounts im¬ proves the flavor of fruit ices. The texture is determined by the amount of solids in the mixture, the use of gelatin or a vegetable gum to stabilize, the temperature of the freezing solution, and the amount of air in¬ corporated during freezing.